Graflex.org

jsedg · Joined: 21 May 2003 Posts: 3 Location: Washington State

Recently I acquired a Kodak Anastigmat F-7.7 lens mounted on a Kodak No. 2 Supermatic f3.7 shutter. The price was very reasonable so I took a chance. Also on the front of the shutter is the number 80353 on a black painted ring close to the lens.

I am new to LF and am curious if this lens is an appropriate starter lens for building Landscape photography skills when used on a my Toyo 45CX. Is it a coated lens? Assuming the shutter speeds are accurate, how will it perform with 4x5 color reversal film and B & W film. Also, I am not clear on the relationship between the f-7.7 on the lens and the f3.7 on the shutter.

Thank you very much for your time.

_________________
John

Dan Fromm · Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2144 Location: New Jersey

jsedg · Joined: 21 May 2003 Posts: 3 Location: Washington State

It does project a very clear image on the ground glass with no vignetting. Given that this is a lens-shutter mismatch, I am assuming that with this f7.7 lens, an f3.7 aperture setting will not in fact render an f3.7 with this lens, and in fact may cause image distortion, is that correct? If so, is it possible to use an f7.7 or smaller aperture using this shutter with this lens? Thanks very much for your time and advice, I greatly appreciate it.

Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

Dan's right, It's an uncoated lens that would later be called a 203mm Ektar. They were also the best value lens around for many years, yours just happens to be the father or the Grand father of the 203 ektar.

As far as using it, keep the sun at your back, and shade the lens as much as possible, it will do fine and probably has more room for movement than any Speed Graphic can give it.

As for the wrong aperture scale... You can make a working scale with an enlarger and a good light meter.
1. cover the current scale with white tape. Artists tape works well, but masking will do.

2. Mount the lens in the enlarger any way possible, duct tape and cardboard works wonders, just as long as it's reasonably flat level.
3. Open the shutter ( set to T, or use the open shutter press button by cocking the shutter, press the large button and trip the shutter)
and open the aperture all the way.

4. focus the light on the table and take a meter reading. The current reading is f7.7. Close down the aperture and take meter readings until the meter has changed 1/3 of a stop. Mark where the pointer is. This is f8. Close down another 1/3 and make a mark, This is f8 1/3. Close down 1/3 again (f8 2/3) and again, this time marking f11.

Keep repeating the progression until you run out of aperture.

This system doesn't actually give you f stops but T stops. F stops are a mathmatical derivation that assumes that lenses transmit 100% of the light which they don't. T-stops are more accurate in this regard, but don't always work out when using them for calculating depth of field.

The lens will work with color, but admitedly a coated lens will work better. It's fine for black and white. When in good condition and well shaded this lens will give you slightly less contrast than a coated lens--slightly as in a 1/2 grade paper, so don't let the lack of coating lead you into thinking the lens is really really bad. At this point it's better to put your money into film and practice practice practice.

Ansel Adams once said he prefered his uncoated lenses as he didn't have to dodge the shadows as much.

jsedg · Joined: 21 May 2003 Posts: 3 Location: Washington State

Thank you very much, I will do this. the technique is very interesting. I like these old lenses for exactly the reasons you have described. I plan to use this lens and other older Extar glass for B & W work. If they were good enough for Ansel, they are more than good enough for me. Thanks again for taking the time to answer this post.