Graflex.org

[peter k]

I have two lenses on my Anniversary 3x4 Graphic. A Graflex Shutter, 135mm, and a Dial-Set Compur Protarlinse VII f=35cm Carl Zeiss Jena Lens. Which is seems very strange to me in how it operates, and wondered what advantages and / or disadvantages it would have in comparison to the Graflex, other than, what appears to me an inability to use flash Synchronization?

There seems to be the ability to adjust the front standard using the Rising Front Lock Nuts. Could someone direct me to a reference on how to use this? Also is this advisable with a bellows that looks very good, but it is as old, or older than I am. I don't bend as good as when I was young, and wondered if it would put 'undo' stress on the bellows in doing so? Any thoughts?

Researching and reading, there also seems to be some reference to using a magnifier or lope to focus off the ground glass. Would a hand held magnifier work? Having tried to focus off the ground glass the first two shots I took, I can see how its 'impossible' without some sort of aid. To do such a procedure, one would have to have the camera on a sturdy tripod it would seem. I also take it, that this is done because it must be much more accurate than using the rangefinder? Or is there something else going on that I'm missing?

The serial for my unit is #365672. Could someone be so kind to look that up for me, and give me a date. Being an Anniversary Graphic, I take it, it should be between 1940 - 46.

Thanks allot for your patience in these very fundamental questions, but I'm having allot of fun becoming familiar with the camera with all your help.
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p.

[C. Henry]

Shutterfinger's "Not the Serial Number Book list, But..." shows #360070 - anniversary - 1946 & #366041 - 3x4 anniversary - 1946 as the two nearest entries to your #365672.
Your camera is probably a 1946 unit also.

C. Henry

[Les]

The 135mm Optar is a Tessar design which means its fast, but doesn't cover the 4x5 image with much room for movement, and is pretty sharp and contrasty.

The Protar VII 35cm is probably a ProtarVIIa, Protars were complete lenses in a single cell (the part that screws to the front or back of a shutter). You could also combine two cells of the same focal length and get a relatively fast shorter lens, or combine two cells of different length and have three different focal length lenses in one unit.

A 35cm lens is a 13 3/4" lens, which you couldn't use on a 3x4 Anny Speed as the bellows just aren't long enough. I suspect you have either a 15cm or 28cm on the back. a 35/15 would give you a very nice 6 1/8" focal length lens with lots of room to move and shift the front lens. a 35/28 would give you a 7" lens which would be a good length for portraits.

Protars won't be quite as contrasty as a Tessar but they are nice and sharp and have good coverage for movements. A well tuned Dial Compur is a very nice shutter to use and every bit as good as a Graphex.

Using the ground glass with the camera on the tripod is the best way to know your image is in focus. A dark cloth, black towel, spring jacket thrown over your head to block extraneous light does wonders for the image on the ground glass. Just remember to look AT the glass not through it, and expect the image to be upside down.

That said, not all subjects stand still long enough to limber up a tripod and get out the dark cloth. For those times the range finder comes into play.

An aligned rangefinder will work nearly as well as the ground glass. To check to see if you RF agrees with the ground glass, put the camera on a tripod and focus on something about 50 ft away, prefer something with a horizontal line to it, then look at the RF, If the double images coincide with the object the RF is properly aligned for that distance, check again closer, say 25ft then 10, then 6ft.
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"In order to invent, you need a good imagination and a lot of junk" Thomas Edison

[45PSS]

The only advantage to one make/type shutter over another is the speed range or flash sync. The Dial set Compur operates similar to the Dial set Compound. http://www.skgrimes.com/compound/index.htm

A lens projects an image circle behind it. Not all of the image circle is sharp or even in illumination, the portion that is sharp and evenly illuminated is referred to as the area of coverage. You will run out of the area of coverage on most lens long before you reach the mechanical limit of the camera standard or bellows. Focusing a long lens or movements that stretch the bellows fabric can cause damage to the bellows.
If you are concerned about the bellows then get a can of Pledge Natural Beauty furniture polish (yellow can), extend the bellows fully, clean with Windex or Isopropyl Alcohol, coat with the Pledge, and let the camera sit for 30 minutes to an hour. Remove the lens board and or the focus panel, place a hand inside the bellows and support while rubbing in the Pledge and wiping off the excess. Pledge works well for the camera covering as well.

Good focusing technique is the most important aspect of getting in focus images whether ground glass or rangefinder focused. In hand held shooting it is not easy to use a loupe on the ground glass. I use 1.5 power reading glasses for normal work and have a pair of 2.5 power for close up work. Putting the 2.5s on over the 1.5s allows good fine detail on the ground glass for critical focusing.

The serial number list that was refereed to is a list of all the serial numbers that had been posted and a date response from a holder of the book posted on this site. That list was removed from this site but the post remain. It is available at http://www.southbristolviews.com/ , graflexchange link. That book has yours as #357 of a batch of 2500 whose batch number was listed on 10/24/45 and the next batch of 3x4 speeds were listed 1/9/46. When actually built is a question that can only be guessed at.
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The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[Billy Canuck]

Mike Butkus has a PDF scan of the complete official Pacemaker Crown and Speed Graphics manual on his website,
http://www.cameramanuals.org/prof_pdf/graphic_pacemaster_speed_crown.pdf
Instructions for the front-standard movements are on pp. 24-25. You didn't mention which model Graphic you have, but the method for using the movements are pretty much the same for all models.

[Billy Canuck]

Sorry, I didn't notice you said you had the Anniversary model. The instructions in the Pacemaker manual will still apply.

[peter k]

Finally got time to respond..

So the camera is as old as I am .. where in good company

I've taken another closer look and the Dial-Set Compur cannot even fit the 3x4 Graphic, it's to wide, let alone consider the bellows being long enough. Must have come from another camera.
I'm going to have to try that trick with the glasses, neat idea. Thanks.
When shooting with the upside image I'm still getting lost and the last couple of shots, I've have been referencing it with the range finder to see if I have the shot I want.
It'll take me a little while before I dare try the Pledge on the bellows.

thanks guys... p.
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p.

[45PSS]

[peter k]

[Henry]

I agree about the Armorall! Some years ago I used it on the (vinyl?) dashboard of my two automobiles, and they (the vinyl, not the cars !) both developed severe cracking. Definitely not recommended for anything!

[45PSS]

And if one was to stand on their head while focusing and composing on the ground glass, leaving the camera in normal upright position, the image would look normal.
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The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[peter k]

but after doing that, I wouldn't...
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p.