Graflex.org

Peteski · Joined: 12 Jul 2009 Posts: 3 Location: Boulder, CO

I just purchased a speed graphic camera from ebay. I received it and it seems to be in good condition, with a few minor issues.

1. I would like to get a repair manual for it but I am not sure which model I have. The lens is a Graflex optar 4.7 135 mm made by wollensak with a serial number of 919611 and the body has a serial number of body is 302162. The seller said it was a 1946 speed graphic. It has a rear focal plane shutter and is a 4x5 camera. Can anyone help me identify the model and vintage?

2. The front shutter seesm to operate fine, ie. the speeds "seem" reasonable throughout the range. I plan on making an electronic speed tester to see if speeds are in range. If they are reasonably close, I don't plan on playing with the lens. There is an issue where the track lock won't secure the focus. I am hoping this is a fairly simple fix for this. I have been searching ebay for a parts camera but am not sure of parts interchangablilty between the crown and pacemaker models.

3. I am taking a photography class in a month and plan on shooting mostly black and white. I want to do primarily portraiture (mostly family candid shots, maybe some street photography)and will need to use a flash. The camera came with a flash unit, but am considering converting to an electronic flash, as I expect the bulbs are difficult to come by. Any advice on this topic?

4. I consider myself pretty handy but have never disassembled a camera before. I am considering buying a speed graphic in worse condiition to "practice on" and possible restore before I work on my existing camera? Does this make sense?

Sorry for the rambling email. Any advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much.
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Peteski

Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

First rule of Speed Graphic ownership (and I think doctoring) is "First do no harm"

Forget making an electronic speed tester. Spend the time making pictures. If they sound in range, it'll work. Ed Weston said, "when taking portraits, expose the film until you think the subject is going to move"

Don't sweat the focus rail lock. With the front standard / lens out in place and locked, is the focus smooth but not sloppy? If you tilt the camera down does the lens / focus rails stay in place? If yes to both questions, then you can leave the lock for a later time until you better understand how YOU work with the camera. It's not a difficult fix, but I'd hate to see you get a new camera and before you can take pictures of it, you get it torn apart. (this is a "do as I say not as I do, suggestion)

Ser. 302162 was made in 1941. Which also makes in a Pre-War Anniversary Speed. Probably with a good deal of bright chrome and if the range finder is by Kalart its cover is silver but doesn't have any adjustment screws or scales on the outside.

I'm guessing the Graphex shutter (the one in front) doesn't have any electrical connections or say "synchronized shutter" on it. and probably has a cylindrical solenoid at the lower left. Without an internal synchronization, there isn't a good way to shoot electronic flash.
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"In order to invent, you need a good imagination and a lot of junk" Thomas Edison

Billy Canuck · Joined: 04 Apr 2006 Posts: 165 Location: Calgary AB Canada

Hi Peteski, South Bristol Views (good website) has a scanned service manual for the Anniversary Speed Graphic:
http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/AnniversaryService1.pdf
The differences between the Pre-Anniversary and Anniversary aren't major. They're outlined on the graflex.org site in the Cameras section under Graflex/Graphic Model History.
Good luck. I love my 4x5 Speed.

Peteski · Joined: 12 Jul 2009 Posts: 3 Location: Boulder, CO

Thanks for your replies, all very helpful.

The focus does in move around a bit so I may see what I can do with it. The manual will be very useful. I will post some photo's once I have them. Looking forward to it.

thanks again.
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Peteski

glennfromwy · Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming

My memory plays tricks on me and I'm too lazy to dig one out and look, but some have a simple adjustment screw on the focus lock lever. If the lever just flops around, but you can feel some resistance when tightening, try screwing the center screw up until it will lock. If indeed your lever does have the screw in the center.
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Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

Peteski · Joined: 12 Jul 2009 Posts: 3 Location: Boulder, CO

I managed to get this to work, after some effort. I didn't see a slot on top of the screw, so I took the rails off. There is a small steel plate that is drawn up when the screw is tightened and it creates friction to hold rail and ultimately the focus in place.

After some closer examination, I determined that the reason it wasn't holding because some of the steel plate had worn away. There wasn't enough friction to hold the focus. Anyway, I turned the plate 90 degrees and it now holds fine.

However, I created a problem where the front standard has come off the track. What is the best way to get it back on?

Thanks very much.
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Peteski

glennfromwy · Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming

To put the standard back on the track, drop the bed (the side braces have another notch if you push them down) and slide the standard onto the short tracks. Be sure you have the track all the way to the rear before trying to drop the bed. Very important.
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Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"