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[cblurton]

I bought a Pacemaker 2x3 (Serial No. 704837) with extra stuff on the auction site for what seemed to me to be a reasonable price. I received the camera yesterday which appears to be in good shape. It came with the following items:

- two lenses: Graflex Optar f/4.7 135 mm and 10" Wollensak f/5.6 telephoto. (I also have a Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar f/4.5 105mm in a Compur dial set shutter on a 2x3 lens board purchased separately.)
- two roll film backs (both Graflex. One is 6x6 and the other 6x9)
- two additional lens boards
- three cut film backs
- one Kopil self-timer (Mod III)
- one functional Sekonic L-188 light meter
- two cables, one for the flash and one for the Focusspot
- two cable releases

In addition, I received these filters and accessories:

9 two-inch gelatin filters that have never been opened.
1 black metal gelatin filter holder(?) with no obvious means to be attached to a lens.

Seven Kodak Series VI filters in black and yellow plastic cases.

2 Green Labeled "X1"
2 salmon labeled "Skylight"
1 deep red labeled "88A"
1 red labeled "A"
1 labeled "Daylight Filter for Type A film"
1 labeled "Pictorial Diffusion Disk"

1 Kodak Series VII filter labeled "Daylight Filter for Type A film"

I also received these lens hoods:

1 Series VII Kodak Lens Hood
2 Series VI Kodak Lens Hoods

And these adaptor rings with retainer rings included:

1 Ednolite filter holder 31.8mm (Press on type)
1 Tiffen Adaptor Ring Series 6
1 Kodak Series VI Adaptor Ring 1 1/4 inch, 31.5mm (Press on type)
1 Unidentified adaptor ring that holds the one series VII filter that came with the camera
1 Tiffen #706 Adaptor Ring Series 7
1 Tiffen #707 Series #7 Adaptor Ring

And these pieces:

1 Tiffen Adaptor Ring Series 6 (Top part only)
1 Kodak Series VI Adaptor Ring 1 1/4 inch, 31.5mm (Bottom only, Press on type)

So, that gives you a picture of what I bought. Not a single one of the lens hoods, push on adapters or screw in adapters fits either of the lenses that came with the camera, with the exception of the Tiffen Adaptor Ring Series 6 which will screw into the back of the Wollansak telephoto lens.

I think the Optar should take a 38mm series VI adapter ring. Is that correct? I bought one today which should get here in a day or two. I hope I got the right size.

I'm not sure how to measure the other lenses to get the correct size for the Series VI or VII filters, but for the Tessar I get what appears to be 25mm for the opening where a filter would screw in and for the Optar I get 55mm. I want to get an adapter for both lenses so I can use Kodak series filters. Do any of you know if these measurements are correct?

Also, how is the little black metal filter holder for the gelatin filters suppose to fit on a lens? How? Are the gelatin filters suppose to be put into some kind of holder before being put into the black metal holder?

I have a lot of other questions but just two more for now if I may. My Wollensak 10 inch f/5.6 telephoto (Serial No. 441361) has engraved on the cover of the rear element 131.4 MM B.F. To what does that refer? Is this a pretty good lens? I've tried reading about it in these forums but there are so many different Wollensak lenses, and opinions, that I'm not sure which Wollensak I have or if the weight of opinion is positive or negative. I'd be interested in your views.

Thank you in advance for any advice or help.

Best wishes,

Craig

[Henry]

Yep, the 38 mm slip ring is correct for the 135 Optar. Those 31.5 mm slip rings will fit the 101 Optar, considered the "normal" lens for this format. Not sure what you mean by "the opening where a filter would screw in...for the Optar I get 55mm." On the 135 Optar there's no way that I know of to screw a filter into whatever opening it is you're referring to; you have to use the 38 mm series VI slip ring + series VI filter + retaining ring on the front lens element.

To measure the diameter of the front lens element, for the purpose of determining correct slip ring size, it sure helps to have an outside-measuring caliper. I recently picked up one on sale at Harbor Freight. Lacking that, use a metric ruler (preferably a good quality metal one) and eyeball it across the widest point of the element.

You're not likely to ever use the color balancing filters for Type A film (so-called "tungsten film"), which is balanced for exposure with photoflood (3400ºK) lamps. This filter allowed use of Type A film in daylight (5600-6500ºK), i.e, exposing color film balanced for tungsten light out of doors.

The X1 (green) and the A (red) are contrast filters for use with b/w film. A green filter passes green light and blocks red and blue; thus, e.g., green foliage will register darker in the negative and light in the positive (print). Conversely, reds and blues will be lighter in the negative and darker in the print. The A filter passes red and blocks green and blue, so reds are lighter in the print and greens and blues are darker in the print. You can get some very dramatic sky-cloud contrast with the red A, since the blue sky will be very dark in the print. With all filters there is a loss of film speed (expressed as a "filter factor"), meaning you have to increase the exposure time and/or lens opening to properly expose the film. Kodak used to publish a handy filter booklet that covered all the basics, but AFAIK it's out of print. You might be able to pick one up at a camera show, or your local camera store (must be lots of those in H-K!) may have some useful info (e.g., pamphlets from the filter manufacturers).

The 10" Wolly, like the 10" Tele-Optar, is a 250 mm focal length lens that gives a 2.5X magnification in 2x3 format. I don't own one of these so I can't give you any practical advice there.

For the rest: I have no experience with gelatin filters so I can't help you there. Ditto the 88A filter. I have the portrait diffusion disk filter but have never used it.

Sounds like you got a lot of useable stuff, and some you'll probably never need. The extra lensboards and the rollfilm backs are keepers. You might want to look for an RH10 (6x7) back at some point. The film holders are useful for their dark slides, which will fit roll film backs---never know when you might need a spare or replacement, but unless you intend to use cut film (very little now available in 2x3, and IMO it's a royal pain in this small size) you might as well make cute little picture frames out of the holders themselves.

Congrats on your purchase, and good luck and much enjoyment with your camera!

P.S. BTW, I'm dying to ride those double-decker trams you have over there. Maybe some day....

[glennfromwy]

You got a lot of usable stuff there. The engarving on the rear of your 10 inch lens is the back focus measurement. I've never really concerned myself with the back focus and don't exactly know if it has much to do with anything in the real world. Nice kit. Hope you enjoy it.
_________________
Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

[cblurton]

Dear Henry:

It looks like I bought the wrong thing. The Tiffen 38mm Series VI filter ring I bought (Auction Item number: 290251893826) does not look like it is a push-on. It is labeled “38 F 6 Tiffen Adaptor” on the side. I’ve asked the seller to check with the widow who sold him the gear to see if there is a 101mm Optar still lurking among the last owner’s things. It may be that she overlooked it.

The Wollensak 10 Inch Telephone does have threads on the front where, I assume, filters and adaptors can be screwed into the housing. I’ve measured it several times with a metric rule and always come up with 55mm for the top of the thread opening. Is that the correct place to measure for a filter adaptor for Series VI? The little Zeiss measures 25mm. Are there Series filter adaptors for that small a lens?

As to the likelihood of my finding a Kodak booklet on filters in English in Hong Kong, it isn't very high. There is one section of Hong Kong located around the junction of Kimberly Road and Carnarvon Road in the district of Tsim Sha Tsui that has a dozen shops specializing in vintage photo gear but they are incredibly expensive compared to shopping on the auction site even including shipping.

For instance, before I bought this Pacemaker I found three others to compare in these shops. The least expensive was $450 USD and that was for the camera alone. I got mine on the auction site for about $50 less including shipping, film holders, extra lens, etc. etc.

I appreciate all of the information and advice concerning the Series filters. I hope I’ll be able to get the right adaptors and use them, or at least use the red and green filters. The 88A is apparently for use with IF film so it is likely to stay in the drawer.

Working with these old cameras is a challenge. I want to use the camera to shoot handheld around some of the street markets before they are wiped out for redevelopment so it is essential that the rangefinder work. No way to set up a tripod and use the ground glass in these narrow little spaces so I bought my first Pacemaker for $50 USD without any of the accessories and it was the spring back kind. I planned on getting an Adapt-A-Roll to shoot roll film. On this first Pacemaker, the rangefinder adjustments were so corroded and damaged that it couldn’t be adjusted. I had a lot of help and advice from Bert on this forum, but even with his expertise, I wasn’t able to correctly adjust the thing.

Giving up, I bought this “new” Pacemaker. The rangefinder on it is in much better shape generally and I am able to adjust it without any problems. I plan to scavenge the top mirror from the old camera since it is in much better shape and I will need a bright image to shoot in these sometimes dark little lanes.

But last night when I was checking the close focus on the ground glass, I pulled the front standard out and it slipped right off the yoke. It appears that the back track is loose. I don’t have a clue as to how to fix that problem, or even how to get the front standard back on without bending something, so two steps forward and one back!

Thanks so much for all of the information and advice. I appreciate the time and energy you and others put into providing help on this forum.

Best wishes,

Craig

[cblurton]

Dear Glenn:

I don't even know what use a back focus measurement would be. I am interested in the idea that one of the adaptors that came with the camera fits over the back of the lens so I could use filters from there. I've never done that but I have heard of other more experienced LF photographers who have.

Thanks for the information.

Best wishes,

Craig

[cblurton]

"But last night when I was checking the close focus on the ground glass, I pulled the front standard out and it slipped right off the yoke. It appears that the back track is loose. I don’t have a clue as to how to fix that problem, or even how to get the front standard back on without bending something, so two steps forward and one back! "

No problem at all fixing this. Apparently, I had somehow dropped the front without meaning to do that. I dropped it intentionally and with a little firm guidance was able to get the front standard back on the track and it all seems to work smoothly now.

Best wishes,

Craig

[glennfromwy]

If the front threads on your tele lens are indeed 55mm, a modern 55mm screw in filter should work. Series filters won't be practical, if even available, for something this large. Take your lens to a camera shop and see if they have a used 55mm filter of some kind that you can try, to see if it fits.
_________________
Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

[cblurton]

[Henry]

Lots of luck finding 25mm screw-in filters for your Zeiss Tessar. I don't think there are too many of this size floating around waiting for new owners! OTOH, if the Zeiss has a front element configured like the 135 Optar, you could use series filters. Measure across the widest point on the outside of the front element and you will have the mm size that you need in a slip ring. If you're lucky, series 6 may work, but I'm getting the feeling that series 5 may be the one for this lens. The largest series 5 slip ring Kodak offered in 1952 (I have their pamphlet, dated 1-52) was 1-3/16" (30.1625 mm), then series 6 took over at 1-1/4 (31.5 mm). They did make a series 5-to-6 adapter, but again, you may not readily find one of these---which means that now you'll have to acquire series 5 filters. Ugh.

[cblurton]

Hi Henry:

I wish I had a set of caliphers to measure with, but all I have is a cheap plastic ruler. I may need to upgrade! As I measure the Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar f/4.5 10.5 cm lens, it is 28mm across from one outside point to the other. The lip of the lens from the shutter to the top is about 3-4 mm and the dial set shutter speed wheel is very close to the lip so I doubt a push-on would stay on. Screw in filters would work, but probably not a push-on.

Basically, I think I'll give up on filters for this little Zeiss lens and focus on properly outfitting the 10 Inch Wollensak and the Graflex Optar f/4.7 135mm. The Optar is not threaded and I know for sure from other, more experienced people that is takes the 38mm push-on adapter. I wish I had a more accurate measurement for the telephoto since it IS threaded for filters and I could get the correct Series VI or VII adapter.

Anyway, I appreciate all of the help. I certainly have learned a lot from this discussion.

Best wishes,

Craig