Graflex.org

[roninrebel]

Hello Graflex folks.

I'm trying to repair/replace a Super Graphic bellows (Toyo version, but essentially the same as the Graflex) and am wondering how to fully remove it with its internal wiring intact. I've been able to unclip it from the back, but how do I separate it from the camera body wiring? Does it detach somewhere? Or do I have to cut the wires attached to the bellows?

Same question for detaching the bellows from the front standard.

Third question is concerning replacement bellows. Considering the internal wiring, am I correct in assuming that only bellows specifically made for the Super will work?

Thanks for your assistance.

[45PSS]

Ok, now that you have it "uncliped" from the back, look at the cover over the terminal strip, the wires go in at the top rear, see the knurled chrome looking nut on the bottom? Holding that nut from turning if necessary, unscrew the bottom rear handle/flash lug mount screw. The cover will need to be pulled out 45⁰ from the bottom to release from the top. Once the cover is removed use needle nose pliers and pull straight out on the terminals of the bellows wires only. The newer Graflex used colored wires while the older ones only had color dots which could come off. If all wires in the Toyo are the same color then tag them as to which terminal they go on.

To disassemble the front standard, destake the post that the movement lock nuts are mounted on and unscrew the movement locknuts. Carefully spread the sides of the front standard and remove the front frame from it. Remove the solenoid assembly. Remove the top then the bottom locks. Remove the right stile assembly then the left. Remove the finder assembly.

Option: go to http://www.craigcamera.com and purchase a copy of the Super/Super Speed Graphic service manual.
Charles

_________________
Graflex Corp.was a (silent) supporter of Rain Forest Devastation.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2006-08-09 00:09 ]

[roninrebel]

I downloaded a service manual after posting, but thank you 45PSS for the reply. It helped clarify things.

For future reference (for anyone else looking for info about this topic):

The wires were color-coded on my Toyo Super.

And the solenoid and right/left stile assemblies didn't require removal.

Only the two nuts on the left, bottom rear of the standard holding the connecting wires to the solenoid screws needed to be removed, then it was simply a matter of prying open the ten tabs holding the bellows in, and gently prying it away from the back of the standard.

Everything else was left intact.

Now trying to find wired replacement bellows -- that should be more difficult -- unless I can salvage these...

[ This Message was edited by: roninrebel on 2006-08-09 16:42 ]

[45PSS]

What is the problem with your bellows?

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[roninrebel]

The usual issue: holes, holes, and more holes.

Pretty much every corner has them, and several areas towards the front where the exterior vinyl has largely peeled away.

It would make more sense to just replace them, but considering how difficult it is to find replacements (which another poster has also recently discovered), patching them seems the best (at least, short term) option.

I've been testing out various substances/materials (various fabric paints, liquid electrical tape, etc), and I have some gaffers/photo masking tape for some of the more dysfunctional edges, though I might pick up some Dacron material instead.

I could, of course, replace them with "regular" unwired bellows, but the wired system is part of the fun/allure of using these cameras. I'd hate to lose that aspect.

Looking at the bellows, I suppose it would be possible to "wire" an unwired bellows myself using the same type of flat, thin wiring they use, taped to the top of the bellows, but that's a larger project.

Fortunately, I have another fully functioning Toyo with intact bellows, as this is my second, "parts" camera. I'd still like to get it into good, working condition, though.

[bertsaunders]

Rebel,
Try
http://www.plastidip.com
They make a multi purpose rubber >spray< that is flexable and non cracking! I have used it on pinholed curtains/bellows and SLR hoods! One caution though.....ALLOW IT TO DRY for at least 24 hours before folding the coating together, as it will stick together! Apply thin coats, one at a time, the coating adds thickness, and if to thick, a bellows may not fold tight enough, and a shutter curtain gain to much diameter-wise to fit in the body housing! I air dry these items in the sun, on the clothsline!
I have saved a few curtains this way, but it is not a cure-all, so, be patient, and let the coating dry thoughly, impatence here will not be rewarded!
Have a nice day......Bert

[roninrebel]

Thanks for the suggestion, Bert.

It looks similar to the Starbrite Liquid Electrical Tape I picked up at Home Depot, which also dries flexible, however it also dries to a reflective, rubbery sheen.

I'm wary of putting that inside the bellows. I've tested it on the exterior, and it works for the pinholes, but the larger gaps would require heavy coverage, and it doesn't look all that attractive alongside the more matte finish bellows.

How is the plastidip? Does it dry "flat"?

I'm finding the fabric paints (particularly the Tulip brand -- "soft fabric paint" and matte black "dimensional paint") to also dry flexible but with less of a sheen, though they can be a bit thin and don't come in spray cans.

[ This Message was edited by: roninrebel on 2006-08-13 17:56 ]

[45PSS]

The Plastidip will dry to a satin type finish. Beings you have a Large Orange Box self serve center close to you do you have a high end cammera store or darkroom supply near by?
If so in the darkroom department ask for Blackout Cloth. It is a ruberized tight weave cloth about 1 mil thick. The cloth side is glossy and the rubberized side is flat black. You could order a piece from Micro Tools who lists it as shuttercurtain material but you will pay 10 to 20 times more for it from Micro Tools.
You remove the bellows from the camera, streach them out on a table and clamp the ends down so that the bottom of the bellows is flat to the table. Measure the length and end openings. Now cut the blackout cloth with the smaller end opening centered on the larger end opening the length of the bellows. this will give you a piece the same taper as the bellows. Now sperad latex/neoprene contact cement over the bottom of the bellows and while the glue is still wet lay the folded up material edge parallel to but 1/4 to 1/2 inch one side of the existing seam and press out flat. Now unclamp and rotate the bellows to the next side and reclamp, apply the glue and sperad the cloth out smoothly. Continue until the entire inside of the bellows is covered. Once covered, rub off any excess glue. Now carefully fold the bellows according to the origional folds. The folded length of this bellows will be approximately 1/8 inch longer than origional. This type of repair will be Very durable and last many years.
You can get the glue at the Big Orange Box, it is Weldwood Nonflamable contact cement. I can get you some of the blackout cloth for cost if needed.
Charles

_________________
Graflex Corp.was a (silent) supporter of Rain Forest Devastation.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2006-08-13 18:52 ]

[Les]

http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/main/Index.htm

Bostick and Sullivan make a very nice patch kit with black flexible goo and some material for covering large gaps.

Les