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[essessem]

Been looking around and there seems to be a dearth of the above, or it's often unclear whether a lens is a wide-angle 4x5-er or a dedicated 2x3 unit. (Does it make a difference?) I currently have an Ektar 101mm, but would like a fast 115mm–135mm for close-up portraiture. I plan to shoot fully opened-up for that classic ear-is-out-of-focus look, so fast is important, as well as high center resolution.

I beseech thee, o wise ones.

_________________
Speak softly and carry a big camera.

[Dan Fromm]

[Henry]

I can't vouch for the sharpness of the 135 Optar wide open, as I use mine exclusively for outdoor work, but the focal length would seem to be about right for the 2x3 in portrait use. Come to think of it, you may not want too much sharpness for portraits. Anyway, they probably made about a trillion 135 Optar lenses, so one shouldn't be too hard to find. I fitted one to my Century, no problem at all.

[troublemaker]

The 8" Tele-Raptar I believe was made as a dedicated 2x3 lens for the 2x3 Graphics and others. Judging by the performance of mine I am inclined to believe it was meant to be used for portraits. It is definately on the soft side and hasn't performed well for the landscape work I tried with it, but am holding on to it for its portrait potential. Perhaps someone can chime in on this...
However, I have two of the 135 Optars presently, and they are solid performers; reasonably fast at f4.7. While I do not know the technical resolving power, they both make some of my finest images, from people, autos, and landscapes. I recently used one to shoot the interior of a 40's Chevy and was able to shoot it fast to soften the window frame of the car, and that frames the composition, while the the interior is superbly sharp; you can read the speedometer and clock etc, even when printed through a mild portrait difuser! This was a later version of the lens. My earlier model is not quite as sharp, but has a very delightful vintage glow. IT lives on one of my 2x3 Century bodies. So i think it is safe to say these are at least one of the best general purpose lenses adaptable to many ideas. And when placed on a 2x3, superb medium long lenses. I think the issue for your purposes will be that they are not quite fast enough, and when you move in close, not long enough. I wonder if the 8" Raptar might not prove the better choice for that look you describe? Being a Tele, bellows draw places it right about where the 135 lives on the rails.
The Planar sounds like it would be worth a littel research for sure, and if OK with normal lentgh lenses, for some of your work, you might take a look into the 105 Ektar, which is faser than the 101 at about 3.7, and they can be vary sharp. They are of the heliar design, and were promoted for both general photography and limited copy work as well (at least that is what the brochure said).
Just food for thought...
Stephen

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-05-19 21:43 ]

[essessem]

Wow, after checking some of the prices for fast + sharp lenses, I'm considering just slapping the 135 Optar from my 4x5 Crown onto the small Crown. Now if I could only find an extra lensboard for the 2x3...

By the way, a great big thanks to all respondents.

[Henry]

I bought extra lensboards off eB*y and they are also available from Midwest Photo. I paid about $20 apiece for them and had them drilled at a local machine shop (another $ rather than botch the job myself.

Midwest is listing new blank 2x3 Pacemaker boards for $19 on its site right now. See http://mpex.com/ . Click on "Large Format---Graphic Cameras and Accessories" and see the 17th item down the list on page one.

NB: They're also listing a "Graphic 2x3 Lens Board Blank New" at the bottom of page two for $25. Better make sure you/they know what's what when you order.



[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2005-05-25 10:53 ]

[essessem]

Thanks Henry. Do you know what size drill the machinist used for your particular lens/shutter? I wonder if there's a chart somewhere linking shutter sizes with bore hole size.

[Henry]

You can measure the rear element diameter fairly easily with a straight edge ruler; I used millimeters. Or an outside caliper would be ideal. But since you say that you already have a 135 Optar mounted for your 4x5, just remove the lens from the board and measure the hole.

[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2005-05-25 20:24 ]

[troublemaker]

Use a hole saw in a drill press if available with a wood backing. Might be best to clamp the thing down with a small block inside the depressed side down and sandwiched with a thin piece of baord on top overhanging enough for clamping etc... Use light pressure when boring the hole (so as not to warp the lens board, and that is why i recomend sandwhiching it also) and then carefully debur the sharp edges afterwards with a fine half round file and or some fine emery... If you try and drill this thin aluminum with a large drill or boring bit you will very likely twist it into something very unlike what used to resemble a flat lens board.
Stephen

[essessem]

OK, I think I'm willing to try some home machinist work. Shouldn't I use some sort of lubricant--I recall there's a greenish fluid used for aluminum. I assume low rpms on the (crappy, benchtop) drill press. My dad was an aircraft machinist; he'll be so proud of me...

[Henry]

Hey, well there you are! Get your Dad to do it! Nothing like keeping it in the family!

Seriously, I thought about rigging up something to cut the holes myself (I bought three lenses/boards, all different size holes of course), but considering the cost of acquiring the right-sized tools (hole cutters, and I don't own a drill press) I concluded that paying the machine shop $8 x 3 was a bargain. And it was; except for my one measuring error, things turned out OK, and even the error was salvageable: the hole is too big, but the jamb (sp?) nut still holds the lens and there are no light leaks.

[puderse]

Have a 10" tele optar that I have used on both 4x5 and 2x3. Good working distance on both. Sharp/soft-just right for 50 year old cameras on 50 year old subjects by 50 year old photogs for classic (50 year old) results.

[essessem]

Alas, the baby Crown is still in the shop (repairman's been on long holiday), so no results to report. Latest is I'm looking into 127mm Rodenstock-Ysarex from a Polaroid 110 as my solution. Or else 127 Ektar from a 616 Kodak (both more likely to fit existing lens board.)