Graflex.org

[Murray@uptowngallery.org]

OK, they probably aren't my last questions...

I got everything reassembled lasy night except I didn't put the lens/board on yet - might do some light leak checks first

I think I read to use graphite powder for focus track, but also read about cleaning old grease out (???)

1) For the focus pinions and racks, is any lubricant recommended?

I have available graphite, silicone, Teflon (PTFE)-based spray, synthetic grease, and ski shops now sell 'liquid Teflon' (sounds oxymoronic).

2) I may have installed a second infinity stop for a place to store it when tearing down a CG and SG. Now I can't remember - should there be only one flip-down infinity stop?

3) distance scale...fixed and moving scales...I assume I focus on something several hundred feet away, position the moving scale so it aligns with the infinity mark on the fixed scale, tighten it, and move the infinity stop there.

4) What is the proper 'storage method' closing the camera? I think I retract the rack ALL the way back into the rear part so the hinge folds AT THE HINGE!, but then do I loosen the front standard clamp and slide the bellows back all the way? This may become obvious when I actually try it. (Obviously I have not used it yet).

Thanks

Murray

[troublemaker]

I have had good results cleaning metal parts with WD-40. a stiff artist's brush works well cleaning the grooves in the rails. I am not sure which model you are reassembling, but on my later Graphics, I have used only a small amount of medium grease on the teeth of the rack gears under the rails. I am not sure about the focussing knob axle. I think a very small amount of lighter lubricant may be used there and on the focussing lock to prevent unwanted wear, but there, and in the actual slide grooves on the drop bed may create too slippery of a sittuation and leaving dry may allow better tension as having the rails move after focussing is not good. I like to just wipe them off with WD, which tends to be more forgiving then oil or grease for the slides. The manual probably tells all, and someone else can share that info as I do not have one.
Infinity stops are ussually used in pairs, and a small machinist's square can be used to check that they are set properly on the rails. General brand tools makes an inexpensive depth and angle gauge that works well and can be found in some hardware stores. The reason for two stops is that you will notice enough play in the front standard when loose that it can be set out of square. Pressing the Standard down close to the rails to one side or the other tends to help in keeping it square when setting the lock (the Front standard lock is also very adjustable by loosening the lock nut underneath and slightly turning the slotted set screw and so on, it doesn't take much). Mess around with it and you will see what I mean. With two properly set stops this becomes a fast no-brainer, esspecially for hand held work.
When you set infinity, you wil want to focus on something farther than a hundred feet. Read the RF set up procedures on this site. It suggests a half mile I think. I have found this to be good advise. I use LA lighthouse over a mile away.
I hope that helps a bit.
Regards,
stephen
P.S. you are correct in Focussing on distant object, and bringing stops to that position. Mind that the fixed scales tend to be an imprescise reference, infinity should however be dead on the hash marks.



[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-04-02 07:45 ]

[Murray@uptowngallery.org]

Thank you.

[troublemaker]

Also, to answer your question on closing the Graphic:
RUn focussing rails all the way back
Slide the front standard all the way back and lock in place. The camera should then close easily. Some have a little diffrent sweet spot, but nothing bad should happen if everything is all the way back in the camera body. If you havea working body release cable, check that it makes a smooth loop under the bellows when closing. Somehow people get these things crimped and then they do not work.

Havea good day,
Stephen

[45PSS]

Go to http://www.southbristolviews.com/
find the GRaflex Manuals link on the left and follow it to both the user and service manuals. Basic camera function and service is the same for both side and top rangefinder models.

With camera mounted and level on a sturdy tripod run the rails (yoke) all the way into the camera body then out 1/8 inch and set the focus lock. Now unlock the front standard and pull out until something at least 1/2 mile or more is in focus. lock standard. Check focus with a loupe, if it is not tack sharp unlock front standard and reposition, recheck focus. Repeat this until object is in perfect focus with the front standard locked. Check squareness of standard and correct as needed while maintaing sharp focus, then slide the infinity stops up to the front standard and secure. Do the same for each lens that you want to set a pair of infinity stops for, and yes set the widest lens first and the longest lens last.
Charles


P.S.
cutting cornors=ecomony Point & Shoot results.
_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-04-02 23:02 ]

[Murray@uptowngallery.org]

I did my first viewing and focussing yesterday (I've only previously held a lens in one hand and ground glass in the other to check out lenses.

Wow,I guess is all I can say so far...very different than small cameras. One step at a time the things I read about start to make sense...like, it would be VERY helpful to have the leather handle...pretty hard to handhold and focus without one!

My lens'board' rattles a bit...I thought the slide locks were plenty tight, just snug. Is this odd or normal?

The body release is smooth, at least now, hanging free. I haven't hooked it back up yet because I want to check out a different lens. I get the feeling it won't work on a Copal 'press shutter'...seems like it has too long a 'throw' to actuate and the body release only moves maybe 1/8 - 3/16".

This was the first camera that was easier to put back together than take apart. It's usually the other way around for me, and I have parts left over.

Thanks

Murray

[Henry]

Murray, I just posted my solution for lensboard wiggle on another thread, but I'll give you the short version here: I solved the problem by gently bending the lensboard flanges, in tiny increments, with smooth-jaw modeller's pliers. This causes the flanges to seat more firmly into the light-trap grooves in the front standard. When you then tighten down the slides (and BTW check the screws holding *them* so they aren't loose) the wiggle should be gone. If not, do some more gentle work with the pliers. It's trial-and-error all the way, but eventually you'll get results.

[troublemaker]

If you can find a parts list, or dissaemble another fornt standard, there are a set of three washers involved with the screws that hold the lens board slides and also secures the fornt of the bellows to the standard. On each screw there are different sized regular flat washers and one wave washer. To have the proper set up, the washers must be placed in there proper order, and sometimes, they are missing. Also, some slides are just more snug than others, but the important thing is that they can not slide accidentally of course and must hold the board firmly.
Stephen

[bertsaunders]

Murry@,
Email me for strap info!
Bert

[Murray@uptowngallery.org]

Thanks. There are no washers, and I typed too soon, one screw was loose, which helped a little.

I flipped lensboard around 180 degrees also, trying to figure out how the body release connects anywhere near the shutter release.

I had the lens CLA'ed with the lensboard, not the camera, so the mounting ring may have been tightened without regard for the release cable.

Murray

[troublemaker]

If you look at one of the Screws for the lens board slide lock, note that it is a stepped screw. One washer goes behind the slide and the step of the shouldered fastener stops on this washer, thus providing the proper spacing and allowing for the screw to be tightened without creating too much tension on the slide. Then on the front side there are two washers. Next to the slide is a regular flat washer, and between that and the screw head is the wave washer which creates the proper tension and spring effect. The reason for this arrangement is that you will notice a bump on the face of the standard that forces the slide away from the lens board, and this bump helps lock the slide into position as the slide has a dimple, it is a keeper so to speak. So note that the washer between the slide and face of the front standard is of a smaller diameter so that you have correct spacing to make everything work. Certainly you can have it working and take photogrpahs without having the camera perfectly original, but there you go.
regards,
Stephen