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redwing
Joined: 24 Feb 2005 Posts: 3 Location: seattle, WA, USA
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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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HI gang,
You seem like gentle folk, so I'll confess that I'm a spanking tyro in the large format world...haven't yet fired a shot. I recently purchased a Speed Graphic (an "Anniversary" according to the gruff dude behind the counter, but how should I know?) because of the mistaken impression that the dropable bed meant I could keep tall buildings from going unparallel in wide angle shots. Imagine my chagrin, then, when I discovered that the Bed-Drop feature merely gets the bed out of the field of view and does not offer any tilt capability. In reading the text on this website, however, I keep getting un-/re-confused. While I can see the vertical and horizontal "shift" mechanisms, I see no way to tilt, unless I attmpt to lower the bed with the front standard out on it - something that I am loth to attempt. And yet, these words from this very website...
Bed Drop (Anniversary and later)
The bed may be dropped by the following procedure:
Return the front standard and focus rack to the rear of the camera, as if you were preparing to close the camera.
Simultaneously depress the thumb press area of both bed braces.
Lower the front bed.
Note that the front standard has now been lowered and tilted forward.
The last line is what throws me. How can the front standard be lowered and tilted when we've moved it backward into the rear of the camera in the first step? Can anyone clear this up for me, and thanks in advance for your patience. (Consider me an as-yet-unformed, bumpkin sibling. I adore all things of quality and durability and value the process over the result any day. I'm exploring large format as a way of teaching myself to slow down and begin really seeing.) |
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Dan Fromm
Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2148 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: |
On 2005-02-24 14:17, redwing wrote:
HI gang,
You seem like gentle folk, so I'll confess that I'm a spanking tyro in the large format world...haven't yet fired a shot. I recently purchased a Speed Graphic (an "Anniversary" according to the gruff dude behind the counter, but how should I know?) because of the mistaken impression that the dropable bed meant I could keep tall buildings from going unparallel in wide angle shots. Imagine my chagrin, then, when I discovered that the Bed-Drop feature merely gets the bed out of the field of view and does not offer any tilt capability. In reading the text on this website, however, I keep getting un-/re-confused. While I can see the vertical and horizontal "shift" mechanisms, I see no way to tilt, unless I attmpt to lower the bed with the front standard out on it - something that I am loth to attempt. And yet, these words from this very website...
Bed Drop (Anniversary and later)
The bed may be dropped by the following procedure:
Return the front standard and focus rack to the rear of the camera, as if you were preparing to close the camera.
Simultaneously depress the thumb press area of both bed braces.
Lower the front bed.
Note that the front standard has now been lowered and tilted forward.
The last line is what throws me. How can the front standard be lowered and tilted when we've moved it backward into the rear of the camera in the first step? Can anyone clear this up for me, and thanks in advance for your patience. (Consider me an as-yet-unformed, bumpkin sibling. I adore all things of quality and durability and value the process over the result any day. I'm exploring large format as a way of teaching myself to slow down and begin really seeing.)
| Position the front standard on the outer bed rails (on the front door).
Return the focus rack to the rear position. Move it as far back into the rear of the camera as possible. This is critical. If you don't do this before dropping the bed, you may break or damage the links between the inner and outer rails and the blocks that hold the inner bed in position.
Drop the bed.
The front standard will now be tilted forwards. Tilt it back to the vertical position, or less, if you want to accomplish either.
But and however, this won't help you keep verticals from converging. The usual problem with converging verticals is caused by tilting the entire camera/lens assembly backwards to eliminate foreground and bring the top of the subject into the frame.
To bring the top of the subject, say a building, into the frame without making vertical lines converge, level the camera, make sure the front standard is untilted, and then shift the lens upwards in the front standard. In other words, use front rise, not front tilt.
Good luck, have fun,
Dan
P.S., Graphics don't have much front rise and if you have a 127 or 135 mm tessar type lens as was offered on press cameras, its lack of coverage won't allow much rise anyway. By all means try to use what you have, but remember there are good reasons why people used view cameras even when, um, Graphics were in bloom. |
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redwing
Joined: 24 Feb 2005 Posts: 3 Location: seattle, WA, USA
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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 1:53 am Post subject: |
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Dan,
Thanks gobs! I'll try this. What you've said is sorta what I was thinking I might try, but I hadn't seen ANY photos of the front standard sitting out on the bed when it was lowered to a tilt, so I feared for breakage. I'll be careful to put the focus rack all the way back, and I'll let you know how it goes.
I have another dopey question. Since I'll be loading 4x5 sheets in the dark, is there a difference in the feel between the emulsion side and the non-emulsion side that I can feel? Are boxes of Ilford 4x5 sheet film typically loaded sunny side up or in any other particular way?
Thanks again for the help.
Matt |
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alecj
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 853 Location: Alabama
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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 3:14 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
On 2005-02-24 17:53, redwing wrote:
Dan,
Thanks gobs! I'll try this. What you've said is sorta what I was thinking I might try, but I hadn't seen ANY photos of the front standard sitting out on the bed when it was lowered to a tilt, so I feared for breakage. I'll be careful to put the focus rack all the way back, and I'll let you know how it goes.
I have another dopey question. Since I'll be loading 4x5 sheets in the dark, is there a difference in the feel between the emulsion side and the non-emulsion side that I can feel? Are boxes of Ilford 4x5 sheet film typically loaded sunny side up or in any other particular way?
Thanks again for the help.
Matt
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You are talking about 2 issues here, Matt. Wide angle pics and correction for tall subjects to prevent convergence. If you have to drop your bed to keep a wide-angle lens from including the end of the track in your picture, part of that process is the dropped bed, and the other part is raising the lens standard BACK to where it was before you dropped it. IN THAT CASE, you're not going to have any rise left for the "tall subject" problem. As Dan said, there isn't much rise to start with, and my experience has been it is only usable for regular lens use.
With respect to your other question, I find pics are better than words. Go here:
http://tinyurl.com/5hzqy |
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 3:23 am Post subject: |
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I'll jump in here; IT's been covered a 100 times but the search feature may not give a clear definate post, just a lot of references from which one could piece it out.
Sooooooooooooooooo,
In total darkness, you cannot see your hand six inches in front of your face after 5 minutes, remove the darkslide and open the trap door. With the darkslide end facing you and the door on the top, take a piece of film, feel along the short sides of the film and locate the code notches, turn film so that notches are on your right and away from you, insert the non notched end into the holder while keeping the notches on your right. Make sure that you have the film in the film track and not the darkslide track. If the darkslide will not slide in and seat easily then the film is not installed properly in its tracks.
Descide which side of the darkslide you are going to use as your unexposed. There is no set standard. I use dark/black unexposed, white/light side exposed while others do the opposite. Select one and stick with it. Set the darkslide before going into the dark room or bag. Clean the holder and darkslide of dust before going into the dark. I do not fully remove the darklside when loading film, I slide it 2/3 out, if I miss a film track the film jams going in and I do not have to fiddle with getting the slide in the slot, the dimples/bumps on the white/light side makes it easy to determine which side of the darkslide is which in the dark.
Pratice! Load in the dark then check yourself in the light with some scrap film, 2 sheets will do.
Happy shooting,
Charles
_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.
[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-02-24 19:29 ] |
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glennfromwy
Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming
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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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Uh, I may be missing something here, but the Anniversary Speed Graphic does not have a tilting front standard. The bed will drop but there's no way to make the standard vertical. Or am I going nuts? The Pacemaker series came out with the tilting standard. The Anniversary only drops to get the bed out of the view of wide angle lenses that will focus while in the box on the rear rail section. I have equipped several of my Annys with Pacemaker standards for that reason. Vertical convegence is not cured with front movements anyway. It is solely a matter of keeping the film parallel to the subject. You can see this on the ground glass as you tilt the camera. A small bubble level is a useful aid. As to film, when the code notches are on the upper left corner of the sheet, the emulsion is facing you. Good luck and have fun!
_________________ Glenn
"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo" |
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redwing
Joined: 24 Feb 2005 Posts: 3 Location: seattle, WA, USA
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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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Everyone,
Thanks for the replies. As Dan said, I was able to make the standard tilt forward with the bed without breaking my tracks, but as Glenn points out, there is no way to return it to a vertical position while it's out there. I haven't yet had opportunity to study the glass and see how these movements affect the shot--I'll learn more when I get my eyeball in there. Also, Alec - I see the point you're making. I'm not yet certain how important all this rise and wide-angle stuff will be... there are a number of old buildings here in Seattle that I love, few of them higher than 6 stories, and before they all get knocked down I want to document them. By the by, Alec, I couldn't raise your URL when I clicked the link you sent. Error 404. I'll try again later. Charles, thanks for the detailed instructions (notches, who knew!), they will save me film, time, and frustration.
-Matt |
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primus96
Joined: 13 Nov 2003 Posts: 225 Location: Yorkshire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 7:00 pm Post subject: |
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Stick with it.
The first negatives you develope or the first print you have made will have you hooked. |
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 2:14 am Post subject: |
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Quote: | As to film, when the code notches are on the upper left corner of the sheet, the emulsion is facing you. |
Glenn,
I think you should pull out a negetive and recheck your statement, unless you mean once installed and the film holder inserted into the camera then they will be on the left.
Charles
_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.
[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-02-25 18:18 ] |
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troublemaker
Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 4:09 am Post subject: |
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I do not think anyone mentioned a couple notes on loading sheet film...
USe some old sheet film or sacrifice a couple sheets to practice in the light with eyes closed for peaking and familiarity with process... Will maybe help later when lights out. Also, highly recomended to dust off holders and slides etc... before loading for real. I pack mine in large zip locks before going into stuff sacks or dry bags that I haul them around in. Seems to work OK, but a littel extra fuss. Beware of light leaks. Keep back of camera and holders shaded at all times if posible and out of direct sunlight. IF shooting off a tripod it is most easy to keep holders covered even when exposing the film and dark slide is out.
Don't forget to pull your slide, and don't forget to put it back when you are done with exposure. Oh yeah, make sure to have the slides so positioned as to show unexposed sheets when you load them. Pain in the ass to have them showing exposed or worse, mixed up. Start with good consistent habits, and you will finish with them. It may seem fine to have some stuff mixed up now, but down the line, if you do not shoot all the film, or unload it, one will not remember what was what, if there is film in there or ??? Not a bad idea to leave a note on the holder or bag.
Stephen
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glennfromwy
Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming
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Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 5:11 pm Post subject: |
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Charles, you're right. Don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that. I know better than that. Another senior moment, I guess. My apologies.
_________________ Glenn
"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo" |
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