Graflex.org

Henry · Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 3:25 am Post subject:

OK, here's one for the experts. I just discovered that the shutter blades on my 135 Optar/Graphex M-F-X don't open up all the way when the synchronizer lever is at the "off" or "F-X" settings. But they do open up properly at the red and black "M" settings. This is true regardless of shutter speeds. The press focus lever operates normally. I have tried the Ronsonol w/graphite flush and there is no consistent improvement. I can live with keeping the lever on "M", but then I don't have the option of electronic flash. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

45PSS · Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:00 am Post subject:

Service manual says sluggish with synchronizer on M to be 1).dirty or damaged synchro. escapement wheel assy. and synchro. pallet. 2).damaged sector gear.
Locked shutter action with synchroizer on: 1).Sector gear damaged 2). escapement wheel assy. damaged. 3). broken synchro. pallet stud or synchro. sub assy. 4). worn lock lever 5). clutch lever spring too strong. 6). delay lever sprung: not releasing main lever assy., strikes synchro. pallet or spring, or strikes the main lever stud. 7).sector gear spring disenguaged, weak or broken.

Sounds like time to get a manual, precision tools, and do a little surgery taking pictures each step of the way to aid in reassembly.

_________________
While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-01-06 19:05 ]

clnfrd · Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 12:48 pm Post subject:

Sluggish shutter blades is more common in the M positions due to the fact that more hardware is being actuated at these settings. But you say the blades aren't opening all the way in the F/X/OFF positions. If it were me, I would remove the front lens elements, remove the two screws holding the front plate on, remove the shutter timing ring, then the brass cover. There are several screws here if memory serves me...of different lengths.... and one has had part of the threads ground off. Label these screws so that they can be replaced correctly. Inside, you will see a small post in a slot that is moved to the end of the slot when you use the press-to- focus function. Check to see if there is anything impeding the travel of this post to the end of the slot when in the problematic synch settings. The post moves to the end of the slot when the blades are wide open when you trip the shutter. Other than that, it may be that you need a longer soak in Ronsonol to remove some residual gunk on the blades. Fred.

Henry · Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 7:23 pm Post subject:

Thanks, guys. I will try the longer Ronsonol soak (just the Ronsonol, no graphite) before I call Fred Lustig. He overhauled this shutter last year, replaced several bent parts, and got it to work. Frankly I did not notice any problem until the other day. Meanwhile, the lever return spring on one of my RH10 roll holders has busted, and that's going to be a job for Lustig too, as the part looks to be unique (not just any old spring, but formed from *flat* wire). Good thing I have other lenses and RHs!

clnfrd · Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2005 1:41 pm Post subject:

I have found it very beneficial to cock and trip the shutter several times, at various speeds, during the soak. It does a better job of cleaning up the blades. I do this outdoors, keeping in mind how flammable Ronsonol is. Fred.

Henry · Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2005 2:06 am Post subject:

I have a hunch the problem is in the synchronizer. My Vivitar 2800 flashes at any position of the synch switch, including "off," so I know something isn't right. But by eyeball it looks as if I am getting full X-flash effect at all settings, which is all I really care about. One of these days I may get into the synchronizer and see if adjusting the contacts will make things right---I've successfully done this before on a couple of my other Graphex shutters---but as long as things seem to work I may leave well enough alone.

As for the RH10 (off topic for this board but mentioned in passing above) I plan to call Lustig and see if he will sell me a return spring. I was able to remove the film advance lever and associated gearing and extract the busted spring, and put it all back together so it works OK. The roll holder is usable but obviously I have to assist the lever back to its rest position. Having the manual sure helps!