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Mediumformatphoto · Joined: 14 Aug 2004 Posts: 18 Location: Washington DC, USA

While I'm excited about finally shooting my Century with 80/2.8 Xenotar this weekend, I would also like to use 6x9 with max movements.

Any suggestions for a good/excellent quality lens that will fit on a Century and will cover all of 6x9 with movements?

Thanks,
R.J.

Dan Fromm · Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2144 Location: New Jersey

Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

3 1/2" Gold ring Dagor. or a 90mm Angulon. Both are close to the 80mm, will cover 4x5 so will max your movements. They will however be much darker to look at through the ground glass. Best to have a dark cloth handy.

Les

Mediumformatphoto · Joined: 14 Aug 2004 Posts: 18 Location: Washington DC, USA

I should have been more specific on the focal length. The lens doesn't need to be really wide. I'm using only a 6x7 rollfilm back now, and will get a 6x9 shortly.

I would like to be able to do portraits with the 6x7 back (need more lens focal length) and use the movements for selective focus.

Thanks,
R.J.

t.r.sanford · Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 3:02 am Post subject:

The rather limited bellows extension of a "Century" suggests that, for portraits, you might consider either a lens of about six inches focal length (there are a good many "Tessar," "Xenar" and "Ektar" lenses in this range floating around), or a telephoto. I believe the eight-inch "Optar" was designed to fit into the small front of a "Century" or miniature "Speed" or "Crown."

Dave · Joined: 05 Dec 2003 Posts: 78 Location: Canada

t.r. knows more about this than me, but I suspect an 8" Optar would need a bit more bellows than a Century or '23' Crown has? Unless you mean a Tele-Optar.

The other thing you might consider is a plasmat-type lens, like a Symmar or Sironar. I'm a fan of these, but maybe it's because I have a couple. There are always 150 Symmars on ebay, if you can stand ebay. 135, 105, and 100 Symmars are less common. Any of these will have way more coverage than your camera has movements.

[ This Message was edited by: Dave on 2004-08-20 21:33 ]

t.r.sanford · Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 6:36 am Post subject:

Oops! "Tele-Optar" it is!

Any modern 150mm. lens ought to be well-suited to portraits, too, and would allow you to use all the front movement you want. A telephoto might not.

Dan Fromm · Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2144 Location: New Jersey

t.r.sanford · Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 2:49 pm Post subject:

A "Century Graphic" was the first camera I ever owned that had any front movements at all. Its rise (and fall, with the drop bed) and tilt is ample for most purposes. Its shift is more symbolic than practical, but it does serve to illustrate the principle. When you start saying "Gee, I wish I could swing the front and shift the back," then it's time to look for a view camera!

Henry · Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2004 9:12 pm Post subject:

Shift is a frustration on the Century with the 65 and 101 lenses, because the front standard tilt knobs strike the side struts and thus prevent full shift with those focal lengths. However, with longer focal lengths you can use all the available shift because the knobs are beyond the struts. Case in point: the 135 and 203 lenses in vertical format where you need some rise (=shift). I was gifted with a beat-up 135 Optar. After it was rebuilt by Mr. Lustig, it has become one of my favorites for architectural work.

Since I scan my negs into Photoshop I can fully correct perspective at the computer, but it's still nice to have that option at the camera as well.

Old2037 · Joined: 24 Sep 2004 Posts: 5 Location: Neuvo Jersey

I would like to hear about your experiences with the 80/2.8 Xenotar. Does your Century have an RF and, if so, will it focus the 80/2.8 up close and wide open?

_________________
Chris L.

Top · Posted: Sat Sep 25, 2004 2:33 pm Post subject:

My favorate MF canera was the Century/Xenotar combo. Mine worked quite well with the RF across the entire range, and I shot quite a bit wide open. I did find that the Xenotar didn't cover much over dead center with 6x9, and did clip the corners a touch wide open. Shouldn't be a problem with 6x7.
Top

ebrown27 · Joined: 15 Nov 2004 Posts: 45 Location: NE Mississippi

I am new to the forum and press and view cameras. I once knew how to look at the brightness and automatically set my f stop and shutter speed I did check it a Sekonic Auto Leader model no. 38.

But this is about lenses for the Century. I would like to find a good lense from 135 to 150. But if it does not come with the right size board or mount for the Century how do I change it.And I do not know the good lense makers. I will check out the recommended site. "michael gudzinowicz and circle or lens."

Since I have not yet received Century I am not sure what I should look for on eBay. I am really a newbie on these cameras and lenses, even if I did have 6x7 Busch Pressman for a short while 50 years ago and really loved it. Still don't know why I traded it. But I have forgotten everything I once knew.
Ed

djon · Joined: 05 Nov 2004 Posts: 174 Location: New Mexico

I'm having a ball with my little Century toy and 80 Heliar 2.8. I'll soon select a longer lens for portraits, but the Heliar is so good that there's little reason not to crop to simulate a longer lens. Treated as a vertical 4.5X6, for example, it's still better than 35. Happily I picked up a 6X6 back for the purpose, not as wasteful as 6X7 or 6X9 if you're not using the width.

Century movements are plenty adequate for tabletop depth-of-field photos (food photos, for example). The bright 2.8 helps a lot, though the lack of a 4X5 Polaroid would have ruled this camera out entirely when I made my living with food stylists etc.

Architecture isn't everybody's reason for movements and Photoshop sharpening can't fake the depth of field you get by tilting. .

Dan Fromm · Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2144 Location: New Jersey