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R_J
Joined: 03 Aug 2004 Posts: 137 Location: Europe
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Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Any ideas as to how I would go about building a lensboard and mount for this lens to the dimensions of the Century Graphic's lens board?
Plaubel Makina 6x9cm format shutterless lens, 19cm f4.8 pristine lens, in tiptop condition.
If this is an idea wrought with impossibilities, please let me know.
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t.r.sanford
Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Posts: 812 Location: East Coast (Long Island)
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Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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I haven't seen the lens, so I can only speculate on the difficulty you may have to surmount.
It seems to me that the second question (the first one is "What are you going to use for a shutter?" -- but you know that) is whether the rear group of the lens will fit into the rather small front of a "Century." I raise this point because, e.g., a Rodenstock "Rotelar" 18cm. f:4.5 will not fit, unless you're willing to modify the front.
If it will fit, and you have a flange, then all you need is a lensboard (and a shutter). The boards are readily available. |
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Dan Fromm
Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2144 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: |
On 2004-08-07 05:38, R_J wrote:
Any ideas as to how I would go about building a lensboard and mount for this lens to the dimensions of the Century Graphic's lens board?
Plaubel Makina 6x9cm format shutterless lens, 19cm f4.8 pristine lens, in tiptop condition.
If this is an idea wrought with impossibilities, please let me know.
| R_J, much is possible with Graphics, but not using a shutterless lens on a Century.
If you want to use the lens on your Century, you might try what I've done with a number of lenses in barrel:
buy a lensboard. I buy new reproduction boards from Goodwin Photographic ($15 + shipping the last time I bought), and they are available from other vendors, e.g., Midwest Photo Exchange ($19 + shipping the last time I looked).
get a #1 shutter. The obvious easily-used inexpensive one is a #1 Copal Press from a Polaroid MP-4. Top speed 1/125, which you may find limiting if you want to use fast film. The biggest advantage of the MP-4 #1 over other ex-Polaroid #1s is that is has an open shutter lever, so it will allow focusing with any speed set. eBay is a good source.
have an adapter to hold your lens in front of the shutter. I have a couple of adapters, mainly cup-shaped, that hold lenses in front of a #1.
Lenses I use this way include: 5"/4.5 Aviar, 150/4.5 Saphir, 7"/4.5 Aviar, 210/7.7 Boyer mystery lens, 210/4.5 Industar-51, 210/9 Konica Hexanon GRII, 10.16"/9 Cooke. I also reverse-mount a 55/2.8 AIS MicroNikkor that way. The late Steve Grimes and his successors made my adapters; any good machine shop should be able to make one for you.
have the board drilled to accept the shutter, assemble ...
Or, you could proceed farther down the slippery slope and buy a 2x3 Pacemaker Speed Graphic,
then use its focal plane shutter when shooting with the Plaubel lens. If the lens' rear is too big to clear the camera's front standard (same size as your Century's, so you can check right now), the lens can be attached to a board by an externally threaded flange; the flange's threaded section passes through the board into the rear of the lens, the board is clamped between flange and lens.
I use two lenses this way on my 2x3 Speed, Taylor Hobson 4"/2 and a 12"/4. The 12"/4 is monstrous, its adapter is stepped.
Hope this helps,
Dan |
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R_J
Joined: 03 Aug 2004 Posts: 137 Location: Europe
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Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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TR and Dan,
Thanks for the posts. It's given me a lot to consider about this project.
The Plaubel lens has a diameter of around 6cm at the rear lens, and when set to close focus, an element protrudes towards the image plane by around 10mm. It is a big lens, and although I can handhold it in front of the Century, fixing it via a lens board looks very difficult.
I'm planning on using it indoors (EV = -1 to around 4) with ISO 25 Tech Pan or ISO 50 speed film on a tripod so the lenscap would be the shutter. With a lightseal insert, this is fully light tight and although the exposures would run into several seconds (minimum, it would be a rather inconvenient set up.
The main task which daunts me is mounting it onto a lensboard, which can barely cover the the size of the lens.
The Rodenstock might be a better alternative, although I wonder what modification of the lens panel (or the front standard) would be required?
Dan - I'll look up Goodwin Photographic. Thanks for that link. I sourced a Copal No. 1 shutter and its cost exceeded that of the Graphic. The adaptor system to hold the lens on to the board is probably the most unstable part of this set-up; I can't see how such a heavy lens would stay perpendicular to the lens board through its simple slide retainers. Is that a problem with any of your longer lenses, such as the 210 Boyer, or the Hexanon GRII? Thanks for the detailed instructions on the lens board - I've saved that and will look into it.
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Dan Fromm
Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2144 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 1:02 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
On 2004-08-10 15:59, R_J wrote:
TR and Dan,
Thanks for the posts. It's given me a lot to consider about this project.
The Plaubel lens has a diameter of around 6cm at the rear lens, and when set to close focus, an element protrudes towards the image plane by around 10mm. It is a big lens, and although I can handhold it in front of the Century, fixing it via a lens board looks very difficult.
I'm planning on using it indoors (EV = -1 to around 4) with ISO 25 Tech Pan or ISO 50 speed film on a tripod so the lenscap would be the shutter. With a lightseal insert, this is fully light tight and although the exposures would run into several seconds (minimum, it would be a rather inconvenient set up.
The main task which daunts me is mounting it onto a lensboard, which can barely cover the the size of the lens.
The Rodenstock might be a better alternative, although I wonder what modification of the lens panel (or the front standard) would be required?
Dan - I'll look up Goodwin Photographic. Thanks for that link. I sourced a Copal No. 1 shutter and its cost exceeded that of the Graphic. The adaptor system to hold the lens on to the board is probably the most unstable part of this set-up; I can't see how such a heavy lens would stay perpendicular to the lens board through its simple slide retainers. Is that a problem with any of your longer lenses, such as the 210 Boyer, or the Hexanon GRII? Thanks for the detailed instructions on the lens board - I've saved that and will look into it.
| R_J, please send me your e-mail address in a private message. I can give you a longer explanation, send you a few .jpgs I shot ages ago with a borrowed digital camera, etc. Its not impossible.
The biggest lens I use is a 12"/4 Taylor Hobson Telephoto. A monster. No problem but, yes, some expense. But I use it on a Speed Graphic. Not fair, eh?
Cheers,
Dan |
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t.r.sanford
Joined: 10 Nov 2003 Posts: 812 Location: East Coast (Long Island)
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Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 1:33 am Post subject: |
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I believe there are lenses of 7 to 8-inch focal length that will fit nicely on a "23" board; my impression is that the 8-in. f:5.6 "Tele-Raptar" was intended for this use, and that there was a similar f:5.5 "Tele-Arton" or "Tele-Xenar" that was, too.
Alternatively, have you considered mounting the entire lens on its own front standard, which could be very uncomplicated if it were robust and accurately made, and just backing the rear group of the lens into a mating light trap built out from the "23" lensboard? Many years ago, I horsed around with the idea of fitting an 8¼-in. f:4.5 Ilex "Paragon" in a big "Acme" shutter to my "Century" in this manner, but the lens wasn't worth the effort. |
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R_J
Joined: 03 Aug 2004 Posts: 137 Location: Europe
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Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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TR -
that's a very ingenious solution. Unfortunately the 'front standard' of this lens is part of the Plaubel camera, which is elegant in its own way; the lens is really a screw-in lens. The beauty of it, is that it disassembles, front and rear elements, so that all the surfaces can be cleaned, and the oil of the shutters wiped off. It stops down in a near perfect circle without serrated edges, and looks like it will generate a distinctive bokeh....if only I can get it to work. Being a fairly wide aperture, I'd hazard that the lens covering power is sufficient for some of the movements, but perhaps not all.
Many thanks.
Dan's given me immense help on how to convert this, so I'm going to explore these options. |
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