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[wrktoohrd]

I just received a Wollensak 90mm WA and it tried it on my B&J Orbit and I cannot get it to focus. Do I need a bag bellows? The standards wont get close enough. I just wanted to make sure. I also have a Busch Pressman coming in the mail tomorrow, will it focus on that camera? I think it should but am not sure. The film to lens distance should be less on he Busch. Any experience? I appreciate any feedback anyone can give.

wrktoohrd

[t.r.sanford]

I haven't seen a B&J "Orbit" with the front standard racked back as far as it will go, but I'd think about devising a recessed lensboard before looking into designing a bag bellows. My impression of the "Orbit" is that it was not designed as a "modular" view camera, so changing the bellows probably would involve more effort than one might like.

A 90mm. (3½ in.) lens can be focused at infinity on a 4x5 "Speed Graphic," focal plane shutter and all, so should work with the shallower body of a Busch "Pressman."

We are assuming, of course, that the lens you have has not been disastrously modified by someone, and that it is still capable of forming a image pretty much where the designers intended it to...

[troublemaker]

I just checked my 90mm focussed at infinity. the measurement from the front of the GG surface to the front face of the lens board is right on 3-1/2" on a Crown Graphic. Check that, and also one can open the lens all the way and hold between the fingers with the lens board removed to see if the lens will even make a focussed image on the GG. Neither do I know the travel limit on the B&J Orbit. IT shouldn't be too hard to make or find a recessed lens board, but might need a 90 degree adapter or something for the cable release.
regards,
Stephen

[Rangemaster]

I have made recessed boards out of a small cut from a tin can, some tape and 1/8 hard board that worked out okay, just a little black paint and set to go, the B&J can be a real bear to get the bellows off of, I am still trying to figure out how some of these companies figured out how to get these thing attached on some of these cameras?

Dave

[Nick]

Is the Orbit the one that is similar [same] to the Calumet 400 and a Kodak camera? If it is and you don't have the long bellows I thought 90mm would be okay. If it is or if it just takes those 4x4" lensboards then calumet still sells them. Reminds me to buy one. The last time I looked the price for a new board from Calumet wasn't much different then the price for a used one. If you've got the long bellows [22"] then a flat board will focus I think 100mm and a 90mm will need a recessed board.

[wrktoohrd]

The B&J Orbit is similar to a Calumet monorail. It has a 18" Bellows draw and is quite heavy(around 12 lbs) All movements except rear rise/fall. I dont think the bellows are interchangeable without cutting/re-gluing so I guess I will be working on a recessed lens board if I want to use it on this camera. I think 2" of recess would be enough as It is almost in focus but not quite. Thanks for the help everyone.

wrktoohrd

[Nick]

That's even heavier then my long bellows calumet. Wow-) I'm suprised it can't focuss 90mm. My camera with a flat board can handle 100mm. You are very limited in the amount of movements you could do with things that tight but it can handle it. Luckily my shortest lens is 105mm.

[wrktoohrd]

I just put the 90mm on the Busch and the same thing, will not focus sharp wide open!!Is this the way a 90mm should act? It does get sharp when I stop it down though. Pretty good coverage as well. The shutter and optics are good and it does look original. Mabye I just have to stop it down to get acceptable sharpness. I could return it to Cameta camera, It was such a good deal though I dont want to have to. $55!! And the speeds are correct as well. That is hard to beat.

wrktoohrd

[troublemaker]

The folks here suggest that the angulon and Raptar WA's were intended to be stopped down, and wide open just for focussing. I have both the Raptar and Angulon, and while the Angulon is noticeably sharper, both will focus reasonably well for composition at f-6.8. Will the lens focus on objects close up, like 3ft or less? At least you will know if it will perform before you deal with a recessed board. Return it and get a WF Ektar 100 ! (wont be 55.00 bucks though...)


[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2004-04-22 16:52 ]

[wrktoohrd]

I tried focusing on the top of a lamp from about 2 feet away and stopped down to f32 it is sharp enough to read the type of bulb and the wattage. It is not sharp at f6.8. I guess I will take a couple of shots and once I develop them I will know. Anyone else have this lens? Wollensak 90mm WA f6.8

wrktoohrd

[t.r.sanford]

I have the 65mm. version, which I used extensively on a "Century" for landscape work. Indeed, its maximum aperture is useful for composing; it starts to produce acceptable photographic results at f:16, and gets better as you stop down more. It does produce a nice contrasty image.

You might want to consider focusing at the taking aperture, although this may require a good opaque-base magnifier and a focusing cloth.

I'd expect that the lens was able, at least, to resolve the lettering on a light bulb at full aperture when it came from the factory. If yours cannot, you might want to look closely for evidence that someone has tinkered with it. If someone has, perhaps the damage can be remedied.

[wrktoohrd]

Thanks for all of the help! I fiddled around with the rear element and someone had turned one of the pieces around the wrong way. I tried flipping it and it works great now. Thanks againg for the responses.



_________________
"I was only pushing buttons until I started shooting 4X5"

wrktoohrd

[Nick]

So does it focus on the other camera now?

[wrktoohrd]

Yes it works famously! Thanks again for the help everyone.

_________________
"I was only pushing buttons until I started shooting 4X5"

wrktoohrd