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Broken it already

 
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alski2005



Joined: 25 Dec 2005
Posts: 12
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

Weli i'm pleased to report that my Crown Graphic came yesterday. Beautifully packaged and looked great. Took me a little while to get it open. Took me a little while to work out the T&S, etc. Then with the bed dropped tried to focus it, and ball bearings and graphite bits spewed out everywhere! I am gutted!

My Xenar 135mm needs some work too. The shutter is a mess at speeds under 1/5th.

Can anyone put me in touch with someone in the UK to help me... please?

Thanks,

Alex
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Rangemaster



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 412
Location: Montana, Glacier National Park

PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Alex,

Sorry to hear of your misfortune, but don't despair, do you have all of the parts?

You might download the service manual from Rich's website and take a look at how things fit together, an possibly repair it yourself, I have taken several of them apart and put them back together, and they are really not all that difficult to work on.

Check Here, scroll down on the menu on the left side of the page, then located the Graflex manuals Section.

http://www.southbristolviews.com/

Dave

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Graflex Sid



Joined: 10 Jan 2003
Posts: 221
Location: London,England

PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't worry,Alski,my synchro-compur shutter is a mess under 1/50th.these products do tend to gunge-up after very little use.I never use mine,tucked away in a drawer.
In future look out for the original shutters belonging to the Graphics.Hardy ever let you down,not like you have just acquired.
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bertsaunders



Joined: 20 May 2001
Posts: 577
Location: Bakersfield California

PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alex,
Makes no diff which is first, alternate them back into the tube, 43 is the magic number.....then replace the plunger.....
align it then tape/glue it in place! Use no lube, works best dry!
Have a nice day....Bert
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Dan Fromm



Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2146
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2006-01-20 03:16, alski2005 wrote:
Hi everyone,

Weli i'm pleased to report that my Crown Graphic came yesterday. Beautifully packaged and looked great. Took me a little while to get it open. Took me a little while to work out the T&S, etc. Then with the bed dropped tried to focus it, and ball bearings and graphite bits spewed out everywhere! I am gutted!

My Xenar 135mm needs some work too. The shutter is a mess at speeds under 1/5th.

Can anyone put me in touch with someone in the UK to help me... please?

Thanks,

Alex
Alex, Sid, old shutters can usually be fixed and made to work fairly well. Compur, Supermatic, Rapax/Graphex, it makes little difference;the prognosis depends on the individual shutter but is usually good. I don't know any good shutter mechanics in the UK, here is the US Carol Miller of Flutot's Camera Repair is economical, competent, and communicates well. With sterling as high against the dollar as it is, you might try her.

Cheers,

Dan
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well...........the tube at the top of the camera should have the spring with its little brass rounded end pin that rides on the edge of a cam, a cam, a long pin with rounded ends one which rides on the other side of the cam, then comes a spacer, a rectulangar thing with concave ends and rounded sides, then a ball, then a spacer then a ball.....until all balls and spacers are "in the tube" then install the plunger, a long rounded thing and the retaining cap.

While they're out clean them with cleaner and apply a Light Coat of lubericant (just detectable), too much lubericant makes then stick in the tube.

The balls and spacers are steel and the tube is brass so it won't matter if you use a magnet to find the missing ones.

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[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2006-01-20 18:59 ]
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alski2005



Joined: 25 Dec 2005
Posts: 12
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arrrgh!

Hit New Topic instead of Post a Reply. So now there's a new thread.

Sorry...

Alex
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alski2005



Joined: 25 Dec 2005
Posts: 12
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

I was meant to meet some friends for drinks tonight, but just couldn't get this focussing thing out of my head.

I think i still might be able to get there for a few, coz i've fixed it! Well i think so anyway.

For a temporary solution i've nicked a few beads off of a beaded chain. Making a total of 35 ball bearings, 36 spacers & 4 beads (looks smaller than the bearings). Not a perfect match, but atleast it's using the entire profile of the cam. It was out by a bit, so i've just adjusted the focussing stops to suit.

Although the rangefinder is in such a bad state i may not even be anywhere close. Atleast i know what i have to do now. Do i still have to set inifinity now? How do i do that?

Think i've deserved a drink or two.

Alex
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Open camera, loosen infinity stops and slide foward on rails, turn focusisng knob until rails are fully retracted into the body then foward 1/8 inch (3.175mm) and lock. With camera level on a tripod focus on a object at least 1/2 mile (?Km) away by unlocking the front standard and sliding it foward on the rails until image on the ground glass is critically sharp (use a loupe) and standard is square to the bed/rails when locked down. Measure from end of rails to front standard edge on each rail or use a combo square from end of bed to front standard on each side. When the image is critically sharp, standard square, then slide the stops up against the front standard and tighten the set screws. Rangefinder should be in correct focus at this point also, adjust plunger contact plate if needed.
The rangefinder cover is removed by removing two screws on the top of the camera. Clean the mirrors and eye port glass and reinstall cover to improve RF clarity. Be careful not to dislodge the mirrors and do not cnange any settings. Focus aid lamp is also accessed with the cover off.
Charles

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