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How can I wake up my Kalart RF?

 
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StefanoR



Joined: 14 Apr 2005
Posts: 4
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello to everybody,
I just become the lucky owner of a Graflex Century with a 80mm Xenotar. The camera is in perfect shape and from the serial number it should be from 1963. The only thing that does not work very well is the side mounted Kalart rangefinder, I have to move it for a long time (10/15 minutes) and only after that I can see the range finder working, and especially from a close focus position the RF will return to infinity veeeery slooooowly

Thank's in advance, I hope the question is not too basic and sorry for my bad english (I'm from Rome, Italy)

ciao SteR

[ This Message was edited by: StefanoR on 2005-04-27 06:44 ]
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t.r.sanford



Joined: 10 Nov 2003
Posts: 812
Location: East Coast (Long Island)

PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds as though something is interfering with the movement of the arm that turns the rangefinder prism. This could be dirt or corrosion on the pivot that connects the rangefinder mechanism to the arm, or a problem with the spring that presses the arm forward, to hold it in contact with the lug on the focusing track.

The first thing I would try is careful application of methanol, on a cotton swab, to the pivot end inside the camera body. If that improves matters, you will know that the spring is all right but the pivot needs cleaning.
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StefanoR



Joined: 14 Apr 2005
Posts: 4
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I will try ...

StefanoR
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a side note, IF you take the cover off of the RF on the side, which is easy to do for calibration and repair purposes, do not rub the prism or mirrors trying to clean them. The half silvering on the mirror doesn't like to be rubbed, so be carefull with it, esspecially if your split image is not very bright. Some of the guys add a colored acetate to one of the windows to add contrast to the split images. You may not need this yet since you have a later model unit.
regards,
Stephen
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StefanoR



Joined: 14 Apr 2005
Posts: 4
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello, I have cleaned the pivot inside the camera with methanol and the RF it's working a lot better, I mean most of the time it's moving faster to the infinite. The thing that is still strange is that some time the RF won't work at all, expecially went I first open the camera ... other time it's working just fine ... any idea ?

thanks again

Stefano R
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t.r.sanford



Joined: 10 Nov 2003
Posts: 812
Location: East Coast (Long Island)

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's hard to say at long range.

Perhaps a place to start is: if the secondary rangefinder image is not moving after you've opened the camera, has the rangefinder arm moved forward so it's in contact with the little boss on the focusing track? If it isn't, then the pivot still is binding in its bearing sleeve, and further cleaning (followed by very cautious lubrication) is needed.
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StefanoR



Joined: 14 Apr 2005
Posts: 4
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

> ... the rangefinder arm moved forward so it's in contact with the little boss on the focusing track?

Yes, the RF arm it's moving correctly ... maybe a spring problem ? should I open the RF and take a look inside ? any serious risk ?

thanks a lot

Stefano R
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troublemaker



Joined: 24 Nov 2003
Posts: 715
Location: So Cal

PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The black cover will come off by removing the screws at top and bottom; I belive two black slotted on top and sam on the bottom. It is simply just a cover and will not effect the opperation of the RF whatsoever.
You said the long coupling arm inside the body is moving properly, and smoothly? I had one that was just slilghtly bent and was hanging up. The arm should be in contact form all the way back at infinity, and then it will move forward with the contact eccentric at the rails until the focus track is beyond about 3-4ft on a normal lens scale like a 101 or 105. It is perhaps a bit different for your lens. The tip of the arm should make contact upon the rails returning back and lay nicely in the cut groove on the eccentric at the back of the rails. Another simple check may be to make sure the arm is not loose on the pivot shaft at the top where it goes through the body and into the RF. Some of these have a flat, and if the arm is moving it may work, but erractically. Perhaps move the rails out and see if the arm is tight and has no play manually with your fingers or needle nose. I am sure it is possible for something to break or go wrong inside a Kalart, but out of five that I have, and a couple on cameras I have worked on, the only thing out of wack has been worn mirrors, so check all the obvious and easy stuff.
regards,
Stephen
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