Graflex.org

[tgross]

I just got a Crown Graphic 2x3 and was stupidly planning to use only roll film with the ground glass viewfinder.

How do you compose a landscape picture when using roll film?

[Les]

Well anything other than ground glass composing will be approximate.
But I just use the sport finder at the top and make sure to shoot loosely. When using a square format back I'll block off the frame with tape on the finder.

Other options are to use the tubular finder and get the correct mask for the film format and the focal length, but be warned, they never really made a mask for 6x7cm (RH-10), they were either the 2x3 or the 2x3 format.

Les

[Henry]

Well, the same way you compose any other image. If you're asking "How do I use the ground glass with a roll film holder?", then you will need to compose and focus on the ground glass as usual (use a loupe with shutter wide open), close the shutter, meter the scene, set shutter speed and aperture, then remove the folding focusing hood/ground glass frame, and install the film holder, locking it down securely with the slide locks. Pull the dark slide, release the shutter (cable release preferred), re-insert dark slide, advance film for next shot. Remove film holder from camera back, reinstall frame finder/groundglass, repeat entire procedure for next shot.

It's not quite as simple as "Shampoo, Rinse, Repeat," but just as effective in its own way.

By the way, your plan is not "stupid." In fact, it's the only way to do it with a 2x3, IMO. When I first bought my Century I tried using cut film, but that was a major PITA for me (all those little pieces of film!), and now that 2x3 cut film is only available in limited emulsions, whereas 120 roll film offers an abundance of choice, it's really a no-brainer.

I've used the frame ("sports") finder and the optical finder methods with rangefinder (Kalart) focusing, as Les describes, and both will work fine, although you do have to shoot "loose," as he says. Fact, I once took the Century to an air show (WWII-type) near me and shot hand-held through the sports finder, with very good results. The camera elicited much comment as well; it was only slightly anachronistic (mfd. in '54), but then so was I (mfd.'41).


[ This Message was edited by: Henry on 2005-04-08 13:51 ]

[troublemaker]

Does your Crown 23 have a rangefinder, and or ground glass panel, Graflok or springback, or what set up do you have on the back of the camera body?
It may be more easy to suggest how to approach your composition if we know what kind of set up you have there. If not sure, perhaps we can guide you to the info so you can get things up and running.
I know Crown 23's came with spirng and Graflok backs, so i am wondering if yours is the removeable Graflok or non-removable spring and thus only fits one or two types of roll holders.
I shoot mostly landscape and all with roll holders and GG. Scales and rangefinders work too, but not so good when in need of selective focussing and preview capability, though have had good results using twin lens cameras without a preview, but nice to have DOF scales on those.
regards,
Stephen


[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-04-08 00:21 ]

[tgross]

thanks. I was slowly coming to realize that the put the ground glass on, compose and then replace with roll film back was the way to go.

I have a Graflok Back and a 6x7 Mamiya RB roll film back. The back does come off. I am NOT very mechanically inclined, and it took me several days before I could even get the Graflok Back off (my daughter's boyfriend helped) let alone replace it with the roll film back.

Today, I exposed my first roll of film, FUJI NPH 400. I am taking it to camera shop now to see if anything worked. If so, I will try some VELVIA, and if that works, I will try to find a 6x9 back. Any recommendations on that back?

[troublemaker]

The Mimiya RB67 back is a good unit provided all the seals are light tight. It is a good practice to keep them shaded at all times when possible. The RB67 keeps the film nice and flat. They can be expensive to repair, but when working about the best you can find. On the other hand, they are about the heaviest, and since I backpack, I tend to use the older gralfex 23 backs which are about a third lighter, but have film flatness issues. Be careful with your fiocussing panel when removing it. I find they like to jump out of my hands.
When putting the RB67 film back on your camera, slide it in fomr the right and note that the dark slide will wnat to be slightly pushed out about an 1/8th inch. I have not had any problems with this, just make sure you get the back firmly up againt the camera and all the way to the left before locking down the Graflok slides.
Oh, and for the 6x9 back, look for a reasonably good condition Graflex back. The model lever wind type tends to have pin rollers to keep the film flatter, but the older knob wind will work also and tend to be less expensive (though many of the older backs tend to have overlapping problems on the later frames. I think film used to be considerably thicker, which may cause some of this as it would effect the diameter of the spool as it winds. I have tested this and found it to be part of the problem). You can read about them here, and shopping around is good. Check Midwest photo maybe, as they are reputable and tell you just what you will get. From what I understand, Horseman backs will not fit, and some people selling them say they will. they are also very pricey.

Stephen

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-04-08 12:27 ]

[ This Message was edited by: troublemaker on 2005-04-08 17:31 ]

[tgross]

Well, my first roll of film was totally bland, way overexposed. I guess I have a bellows leak. Not sure if I want to go to expense of repair.

[Bertilsson-Photo]

Take your camera into the darkroom and put a small light inside the camera with the bellows extended and the rear closed. That way you can identify light leaks easily and also possibly repair them, at least temporarily.

- Thom

[t.r.sanford]

In my experience, unless you have a really major light leak, the fogging will be streaky, exhibited by part of the negative. If the problem is uniform fogging or overexposure, you might consider alternative explanations for it (e.g., shutter blades hanging open).