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Basic Folmer RB questions...
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vic valis



Joined: 21 Nov 2001
Posts: 247
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...well it was an impulse buy on eBaty, but I bought an older RB 4x5 camera. In cosmetically good condition, but have no idea if it works (an IMPULSE buy, the fun is in the anticipation). Assuming it's not total junk inside, I can probably handle most of the repairs, but aside from the online manual on this site, anyone know of any other resources I can avail myself of? Burt can probably help, I think he's worked on these cameras before, but like I said, just bought it. It may be weeks before I have it in hand. Just getting curious. P.S. My Speed Graphic/field camera hybrid is 80% done, but I've been too busy to finish it. I look foward to posting pictures someday.

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bertsaunders



Joined: 20 May 2001
Posts: 577
Location: Bakersfield California

PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vic,
I have all kinds of instructions that I have written from my experiences working on these cameras over the past 20 plus years! Will help you any way you need help...will as allways even talk you thru the repair via email if needed!........Bert
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vic valis



Joined: 21 Nov 2001
Posts: 247
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't worry, if it needs help you'll be hearing from me. By the way, it was a year or more ago, but I finally finished my wwii era SG, only had the shutter fly apart on me once, and as it turns out I never ended up using the FP shutter, just the front shutter.

jeff

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vic valis



Joined: 21 Nov 2001
Posts: 247
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2005 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the RB is in and seems to be working pretty good. This is one of the older ones with the grayed brass parts, NOT the sort with the SG-type drop front and front standard. So good all it seems to need is a cleaning (there is something rattling around inside, but has no affect on operation). Two questions now: the front door/lens cover is missing. As I would not store the camera witht eh lens on, I'm thinkingI can make a new one with 1/4 thick wood stock... How did it latch and how did it spring up? I can see how it would close, but see no place on the hinge for springs. Second: the top cover's handle's straps have broken, and it looks like they were fastened to the top with a brass rivet through thick brass washers inside and out. I assume these were peened into place; can anyone out there confirm this? Burt, I figure you're the wizard with these cameras... thoughts? In any case, once I make my "B" to "C" lensboard adapter (it came with an extended "B" board to accomodate the very thick Voightlander lens), I'm going to shoot a load of film with my bagmags.

jeff

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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You hit the rivet on the head. Bret has posted here somewhere once before about replacing the handle and using brass excrusion pins as subitutes for rivets. I replaced the handle on my ol RB Auto using brass 4-40 screws and nuts/washers cutting the screws to stop flush with the nut edge when tight, not origional but functional.

Which RB do you have, B, C, D, .....?

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vic valis



Joined: 21 Nov 2001
Posts: 247
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's about what I was thinking: use screws and washers, which is reversable. Even replacomg the leather strips with black-painted brass for strength, since I'm probably going to be using this camera a lot. I'll have to repair the handle itself, but it looks intact. I have an idea on how to make the front door spring up when the front is racked out, but anyone know how it was done originally?

jeff

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bertsaunders



Joined: 20 May 2001
Posts: 577
Location: Bakersfield California

PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vic,
The door on all B and D models is a formed sheet metal door, springs were on the hinge pin itself, and the latch is a spring loaded pin that engages a slot in the bottom of the door! As for the top handles, I normally pin them as per the original, but have also used screws and blind nuts on replacements! I would not use metal for the straps however, they will cut the straps, and replacement handles will be necessary much sooner than necessary! And, usually what happens to the old handles, the threading breaks, and the laminated sections separate.....I just glue them back together with Elmers white glue, clamp them for a while, and they last a long time!...........Bert
Note To 45PSS you keep getting the wrong sylab'ble reversed in my name...good thing
folks dont try to find me with that spelling...(but,I have had >worst< spellings of my name than that)haha (Bret)
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I apoligize, it's unitentional.
Charles

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vic valis



Joined: 21 Nov 2001
Posts: 247
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hadn't thought about the straps cutting the handle, but it's a good point. I may still go with brass strips, though over wider leather straps, and just watch them to make sure that the brass does not cut into the handle. I still have leather left over from when I recovered my old SG, but the stuff doesn't feel as strong as what was originally used.

jeff

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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the handle(s) I made for my RB Auto and Kodak Comerical View I picked up a bag of leather reminants at Michaels (an arts and crafts store) and cut out several pieces of thin leather using the origional handle as a template. I glued the 4 or 5 layers together with latex/neoprene contact cement then cut a larger piece of the thin leather and wraped the layered stack putting the seam on the bottom, glueing it on also. The leather retainer straps were done the same as the handle but with fewer layers.
Charles

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[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-03-21 18:51 ]
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bertsaunders



Joined: 20 May 2001
Posts: 577
Location: Bakersfield California

PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2005 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TO 45PSS,
No problem, when the wife calls me...I usually get a much worse spelling!....Bert
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vic valis



Joined: 21 Nov 2001
Posts: 247
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I've gone ahead with my plan to cover the brass with leather on the retaining straps, and it looks pretty good... pretty good in that I used the wrong paint on the brass: not the fast-drying enamel I meant to use, but a slower-drying paint that rubbed off the screws and nuts, making the new hardware look like it's 20 years old. Unintentionally effective weathering. Probably won't be using the handle much, more for looks. Anyhow, to the meat and potatos: First I need to know age. Serial number on the inside of the top hood is 56563. Hopefully this is the correct number. Secondly, this camera may have been worked on if there was supposed to be a spring on the hinge pin for the front cover, like on the rear accessory hood. I see no evidence of it, nor of a means of attaching the pie-shaped fabric to the front standard. In either case, I don't need a front that pops up by itself at the moment; I can fabricate a new front that looks fine, and the hinge has enogh resistance to keep the cover up all by itself. However, if the model's age gives it a different sort of front lid, I'd like to know. Final question: any info somewhere else on this site on repairing or replacing the viewing hood? I'm about to run through my first few shhets of test film, and a new tear has developed. I narrowly missed winning one on eBay, though I don't know if it would've fit. Looks pretty easy to make my own, though suggestions as to what sort of tape to use as a temporary fix would be appreciated. Thanks all!

jeff

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Gandolf



Joined: 26 Dec 2001
Posts: 328
Location: middle earth

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

circa 1914-16 4x5 RB telescopic
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vic valis



Joined: 21 Nov 2001
Posts: 247
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, sounds impressive! Telescopic! I've always wanted a Big Bertha, just don't know what I'd photograph with one. Had to modify the previously modified "B" lensboard to take my "C" lensboards as an adapter, so it already looks a little teescopic. Thanks!

jeff

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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gaffers tape applied to the inside of the focus hood should do the trick.
Previous post on the subject.
The shutter curtain/rubberized dark cloth referenced is thin enough that it can be used in the bellows as well and will not affect closing unless another glue that is not flexible is subsituted.


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