Graflex.org

[ebrown27]

I tried using mold, mold and lens in search but I did not come up with anything. Perhaps I used the wrong key words.

Does mold occur between lens elements and if so can the lens be uncemented, cleaned and re-cemented -- without too much difficulty?

Or if offered a lens for a small price with with white specks inside the lens should it be purchased or just regarded as worthless?
Ed

[ This Message was edited by: ebrown27 on 2004-12-13 05:34 ]

[Dan Fromm]

[RichS]

If you search the forums for 'fungus lens' you'll see a few good discussions one the matter, along with recementing. I started a discussion about it about a year ago or so.

Dan is right. Having a lens recemented is outrageously expensive. Usually costing more than any used lens is worth. But many people have reported doing their own quite successfully. I was going to do it last year because I just like to try such things. I still plan to one of these days, but projects do have priorities...

If the lens is cheap enough, buy it for use as is. Then think about working it at some future point. Like everyone else, I'd recommend the UV optical glue which is easily found. A google search will easily find the reports on how others have recemented their lenses. It's not difficult at all. But, it can be very difficult to secure the individual elements in proper alignment while the glue cures. If their not right, the lens won't work. But many people have stated that it's not all that difficult, so maybe it's worth it to you just for something new to try?

If you do, let us know!


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"Ya just can't have too many GVIIs"
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[ebrown27]

I doubt if I buy it now. If I should I will let you know.
Ed

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Blessed are they who can laugh at themselves for they shall never cease to be amused.
-- Unknown

[djon]

I've read that you can fix "snowflakes" in cement by heating...anything to that?

A beautiful Kodak Bantam Special with an f2 Ektar that suffers those stars. (I've scanned neg and 1940 Kodachromes from it...exquisitely sharp).

I'd imagine the heat (on optic cells only) would need to be above 150 degrees because that temps common in cars in 100deg weather, and surely this camera experienced some of that during the past sixty years.

Opinions?

[troublemaker]

Look closely at the front (and back) of your lens. You should see an inner threaded ring holding the front element in. This can sometimes be removed with the use of a properly trimmed rubber device like a chair tip available at most hardware stores. carefull not to rub the glass with it. The front elements should pop out and you can then at least clean inbetween which is often all that is necesarry. If in the cement, try the lens anyway because a diffused image is sometimes desireable, don't toss it, or rather maybe toss it in the maybe I can use this later pile. I have a couple xenars that make nice images ragardless of mild fungus problems. Most of the older press camera lenses are not really worth having repaired like a newer multi-coated supernar that costs three million dollars. People go to all sorts of trouble de-tuning super sharp lenses, esspecially for portrature and the like. Note that there are many sorts of difusing filters and such ******* at the local camera shop. They used to make soft focus lenses just for this purpose, and some folks prefer to just adda littel celophane and so on. When you get your rig ready to expose film, let the lens show you what it will do before you worry about it too much. Shoot it in various light and contrast situations. I like broken light a lot with a lot of brights and shadows highlighting certain things. Been known to sit on a mountian pass for hours trying to get the clouds to do what i want... A vintage lens is much the same, you can only work with it. I have a number of Optars for example, and while they all appear at first glance to be very clear and so on, no two shoot the same. My Ektars have a better glow-difussion effect in bright light, but one of my Optars is absolutly stunning in bright winter sunlight, and I intend to use it more often since i fixed its shutter. I have another that doesn't exactly focus, kind of a split image almost, neato effect for moving action. Depends on what you want to do. you can buy those filters too...
Anyway, what you will hear a lot of here is just that, depends on what you want to do, and in some ways, it is all good...anyone one can make a nice boringly sharp image because anyone can buy one [a sharp lens] Then everything relys on composition alone, meaning your eye. But look at some of the diffused and toned images currently quite popular in the art world. Many of them have been shot with $16 Holgas with plastic lenses. I just shot a train with my mom's 1930's Browine and had a hard time convincing folks I took the image a few weeks ago. Very fun stuff. Enjoy it for what it is I say (and I say it is just loose opinion easily swade this way and that), and I have said far too much I believe, sorry...
stephen