Graflex.org

[Sjixxxy]

In light of inability to get the broken spring on my B&J fixed proper, I thought I'd check out plan B. Plan B was to find a graphic with a) No lens, B) A Kalart Rangefinder, c) No broken springs and work from there.

I found one fitting my requrements right away on eBay and scooped it up for $46. (Link) Looking at the info here, it looks like an Anniversery Speed Graphic to me, that seem right?

I figure I can just do a little cleaning/adjusting, swap the lens, focuspot and flash handle over to it and be ready to go as long as the 'as is' status isn't holding back and dirty surprizes. Then whenever I do get the B&J fixed I can use that for field work, and use the Graphic for the ever fun handheld stuff.

Extra bonus if the focal plane shutter is accurate. The idea of using 100 year old dirty barrel lenses is something that would be of interest to me.

[45PSS]

Yep, it's an Anny.
Don't give up on the B&J spring(s) either.
Charles

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[Sjixxxy]

It came today.



Far as I can tell so far, nothing is wry with it. Focal Plane shutter zips by at what looks about ballpark accurate speeds. Doesn't seem to drag of bounce. Rangefinder could use a new beamsplitter though. Maybe I have a shard big enough to fit into it. Other then that it just looks like it needs to be dusted out a bit and have the various glass parts cleaned up and it could be good to go. Few quickie questions though.

1) SN: 392364. Someone want to put a date to that?
2) The info given on this site says that the FP shutter goes from speeds of one second to 1/1000ths. The little chart only lists settings down to 1/10th. Where is the 1 second hidden?
3) There is a tripod hole on the left side under the strap. This a standard feature, or a nice gift from a previous owner?

It also looks like the springs are about the same length as the ones for my B&J. I think I'll take one off later and see if they fit, then I can just watch eBay for a set, ot just a back to scavenge them off of and fix it up with them.

[Rangemaster]

Well on number 3, the tripod hole is standard so you should have two, the one on the side under the handle and one on the bottom, allows you to shoot both verts and horts...

Dave

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Focus on the Picture, Not on the Glass.
Satin Snow(TM) Ground Glass

[glennfromwy]

There is no speed slower than 1/10. You have to remember that 90% of the folks who sell this stuff at auction have no idea how, or if it works. A common misconception is that tension number 1 is 1 second. Wrong. The strap unclips so you can get it out of the way when shooting verticals.
To shoot time exposures, use tension number 3 or higher, set the shutter on T, trip to open, trip again to close. Store the camera with tension on number 1 and the shutter should be run all the way down. It's a good idea to "pack" the shutter before use, especially at the high speeds. To do this, select the tension number you want to use, wind the shutter to "D" and release one or two steps. Do this 3 times and the curtain will be wound tightly and you're ready to go for the day. Set your speed and have some fun. I think you got yourself a bargain.

_________________
Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

[Sjixxxy]

The one second comment wasn't from the auction though, it was right on here on graflex.org in the section for the annies. But now that I read it again, I notice I missed the part where it says "in combination with leaf shutter." so it makes sense now.

Thanks for the advice about packing the shutter. I'll try to remember to do that.

One of my friend's brother is a rookie stock car racer on the local circuits. For some crazy reason I can see myself being asked to shoot some races. Now that I got this, I'm thinking of the old "leaning car" photo that this camera is capable of. What is a good speed to use to see this effect?

Well. I got the good clean rangefinder from my B&J transfered onto the Speed (The prism on the speed's finder was pretty ugly), guess I'll go calibrate it now and get some film ran through this thing.

[Les]

When I shot cars (with a Nikon) for Pan blurrs (where the car is sharp but the background shows motion)

We ran the car at about 15-22mph and shot a 1/25 down to 1/8

You'll have to shoot a lot of film, but I'd start by setting the slit to the smallest opening and the slowest tension it works, then move up in speeds.

Les

[Sjixxxy]

Calibrated the RF and ran a few sheet through today. Negatives look good, but one more question arose.

Is it normal for the focus rails to move due to gravity if the lock isn't enabled? My B&J is tight enough that I never needed to use the focus lock since it would stay wherever I focused it at. Thus flicking the lock isn 't in my routine, and every time that I'd forget to, and move to pull the darkslide or whatever, the rail and lens would go rolling away. Any way to adjust the amount of friction on the rails. I don't think I like them being this loose.

[glennfromwy]

Look closely at the focus lock lever. Do you see a tiny screw head down in the center of the pivot shaft? That little screw is the friction adjustment.

_________________
Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

[45PSS]

If the Anny is made like the Pacemaker then there are a series of 5 screws on each side of the yoke (rail) that hold the bed block and guide in place. The block is the platform that the yoke sits on and the guide is what guides it.
Loosen the screws on one side only 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and using a square remove 1/2 the lack of tension by pressing inward on said block and guide and tighten screws. Remove the other half of looseness with the other side.
Verify yoke travels perpendicular to film plane full distance of travel without binding. Lock tension adjustment is best just used for making the lock work.
Charles


_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.