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century graphic advice

 
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jadeddo



Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Posts: 6
Location: California

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2003 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a century graphic with it's standard 103mm/f4.5 lens and am looking to add more lenses. I am seeing several lenses listed that will fit the camera, but I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on what will produce the highest quality images? Also, my local shop has a large inventory of lenses without lens boards, any suggestions on adapting those for my CG?
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Dan Fromm



Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2144
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2003 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2003-04-11 15:49, jadeddo wrote:
I have a century graphic with it's standard 103mm/f4.5 lens and am looking to add more lenses. I am seeing several lenses listed that will fit the camera, but I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on what will produce the highest quality images? Also, my local shop has a large inventory of lenses without lens boards, any suggestions on adapting those for my CG?
Two questions there.

The first is too open-ended to answer. Why don't you tell us which lenses you have in mind. FWIW, IMHO, the best inexpensive normal lens for the Century (and all other 2x3 Graphics) is the 101/4.5 Ektar.

Lenses in shutter without boards? Well, you buy a lens that will fit your camera, then you buy a board, then you drill the board or pay someone to do it, and then you put the lens on the board. And there'll you be!

There are several pitfalls.

Lenses in barrel (no shutter) can't be used on a Century because the body has no shutter.

Some modern wide angle lenses really can't be used on a Century because their rear cells won't clear the bellows. Lenses whose rear cells won't pass through the front standard can often be put on by unscrewing the rear cell, attaching lens on board to the front standard, and then screwing the rear cell in from behind.

And long lenses, even in shutter, won't work on a Century. The practical maximum is the 250/5.6 TeleOptar/TeleRaptar.

About getting the best possible quality. Um, that's very hard and throwing money at it won't solve it completely. Lousy technique will cost you more quality than a better lens will gain.

Learn how to use the gear to good advantage, then worry about upgrades.
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clnfrd



Joined: 26 Mar 2002
Posts: 616
Location: Western Kentucky Lakes Area

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2003 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my opinion...you can't go wrong with 101mm Ektar...Optar...or Raptar. I've had my sharpest images, along with magnificent tonal gradations, with a Wollensak Raptar, 101mm. These are all 4-element lenses. You can read all the data...get confused...but the proof is in the pudding. In normal usage, with relatively fast film...stopped down to f11...16...or 22...these lenses are more than adequate. Fred.
P.S. Your "standard" 103mm lens is probably a Trioptar...only 3 elements...and leaves a lot to be desired.

[ This Message was edited by: clnfrd on 2003-04-11 16:53 ]

[ This Message was edited by: clnfrd on 2003-04-11 16:55 ]
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jadeddo



Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Posts: 6
Location: California

PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2003 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice. I suppose what I'm looking for is a better "standard" lens than what I have (the sharpness leaves something to be desired, although that may be more to do with the back not holding the film flat than the lens itself) I was looking for a lens that opens more than 4.5 and is faster than 1/200.

In addition to that, I'm just wondering if things like wide angle & telephoto are even an option for this old puppy. Then again, the 103 is pretty wide, I feel like I have to be right on top of my subject because the lens includes so very much background - I guess I'm looking for something to bring my subjects closer.
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Dan Fromm



Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2144
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2003 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

On 2003-04-11 20:52, jadeddo wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I suppose what I'm looking for is a better "standard" lens than what I have (the sharpness leaves something to be desired, although that may be more to do with the back not holding the film flat than the lens itself) I was looking for a lens that opens more than 4.5 and is faster than 1/200.

In addition to that, I'm just wondering if things like wide angle & telephoto are even an option for this old puppy. Then again, the 103 is pretty wide, I feel like I have to be right on top of my subject because the lens includes so very much background - I guess I'm looking for something to bring my subjects closer.
Well, for wide you have many choices. I just replaced a 65/6.8 Raptar with a 65/8 Ilex Acuton, which is much much better. Anti-Super Angulon. For very very wide on my Century I use a 38/4.5 Biogon. No, not ex-'Blad, ex-AGI F135, had to be remounted at considerable expense, but still much less expensive than an SWC. It doesn't cover 2.25 x 3.25 but doesn't miss by much. The widest lens I've heard of in use on a Century is the 35 ApoGrandagon, and it covers.

For longer, again there are many possibilities. Remember that lenses intended for 4x5 will work on the Century. Big question is how much longer you want.

For normal, again, there are many choices. Given the Century's minimal movements there are few lenses much better on it than the 101/4.5 Ektar. If you have too much foreground, move closer. With a normal lens, your Century sees the same view as a 35 mm camera with its normal lens (43 mm, not 50 mm, 50 is a bit long for normal on 35 mm). You could use a 127/4.7 Ektar if you want a long normal lens, and there are many very nice modern lenses.

Cheers,

Dan
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jadeddo



Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Posts: 6
Location: California

PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2003 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, thank you for all the information! This helps a lot. The reason it looks like too much forground is probably that my 35mm does have a 50 on it, so that is "norm" to me. Looks like I need a tripod too, the hunk o junk that this camera came with weighs more than I do and is a touch rusty - makes it tough to move closer.
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ricksplace1



Joined: 18 Sep 2001
Posts: 17
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2003 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with all of the advice you've received so far and would like to add that I have a 80mm/2.8 Xenotar in a Compur 1-400 as a standard lens. Sharp as a tack but not a lot of movements available. They come up on Ebay infrequently. 127/4.7 ektar I use on my 4X5 and CG. I also have a few "uncoated ektars" (see the lens info on this site). These are basically 4 element tessar type lenses (uncoated) and are sufficiently sharp when used at the smaller aperatures. I use a 100/4.5 Kodak "special anastigmat" supermatic 1-400 from a Kodak Monitor, and a 162?/6.3 "Zeiss Kodak Anastigmat"compur dial 1-200 from a Kokak A3? with a little separation on the edges. Both lenses sharp as a tack if stopped down. These old lenses with new film technology produce outstanding images when used with some forethought about their limitations. Best of all -they're cheap.
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mtwo



Joined: 17 Jan 2003
Posts: 15
Location: Wasatch Front

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Century has a 105mm 3.5 Xenar which I like a lot. It is relatively easy to focus on the GG and is amazingly sharp even at about f4. I use this lens most of the time for almost everything. I also have an 8 inch Graflex Tele-Optar which I use for portraits. It is not so sharp as the Xenar and the max aperature of 5.6 is a bit more difficult to focus on the GG. The Optar also does fine for flowers and the like if the bellows is extended a bunch. You owe it to yourself to stop down as much as the situation allows and use a tripod when you can.
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