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horla
Joined: 15 Nov 2004 Posts: 20 Location: nyc
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Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:22 am Post subject: |
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Up to now, when I am using my “modern” Vivitar flash with my Super Graphic, I have been using a PC to PC connection between the lens (a 150mm and 210mm Schneider) and a hot shoe that I plug the flash into. This works perfectly. Now I am hoping to try and use my 90mm and 135mm Optars. They both are currently connected to Super Graphic electric boards. What I have been wondering is if it were possible to use the old three prong polarized jack on the side of the camera with my Vivitar. I know I could have “Paramount” make a cord, a 3-prong SG to a PC connection, but I have a feeling the camera and this connection type aren’t going to mix and it ultimately won’t work. As an alternate, I could simply use a PC to BI-POLE cable and disconnect the lens poles from the SG boards but I would really hope that I wouldn’t have to just in case I someday decide to use an old Graflite flash where I would want to utilize the internal flash connection port.
So, before I spend the money to have a cord made does anyone have any suggestions?
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RichS
Joined: 18 Oct 2001 Posts: 1468 Location: South of Rochester, NY
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Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:16 am Post subject: |
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Yes, you can deffinitely use the contacts on the body to fire your flash as long as your shutters have x-synch.
If you know how to use an ohm meter, you can simply check the contacts on the front standard to the side flash plug. The two contacts connect directly to the plug's 'A' and 'C' contacts. If you look at the plug from the side, these are the middle and rear holes, or the wide spread set (only two!).
If you don't have an ohm meter, you could use two small pins and wires, alligator clips, etc, to jury rig a "cable' to test it with.
I just recently made my own Super cable and plug using brass rod for the pins and silicon for the plug. Works great.
By the way, the front pair of connectors (A & B)[A being the center one] on that plug are connected directly to the other side shutter release button (the electric one), which makes for a nice wired remote trigger...
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