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KeithNP
Joined: 30 Nov 2001
Posts: 26
Location: Loma Linda, CA
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 Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2002 10:00 pm Post subject: |
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I just got the Paramount cords adapter to go from Bipost to PC-female. Once I get the correct cords to go from there to my 283 (or my nikon SB-2 , what do I need to know about the settings?
Using the little dial on the side of the 283 is easy enough (f16, asa 100 film, 10 ft, use the purple setting (or whatever - I don't have it in front of me)), but I assume that only really applies to 35mm cameras. How do I compensate for the bigger neg (which I assume needs more light)?
I never really learned about calculating flash exposures, as I was a child of the TTL age. (My F100/SB28 combo probably exposes better than I could even if I knew how to figure it out). Is there a good reference for this sort of thing? |
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hartwell_a_m
Joined: 04 Jun 2001
Posts: 84
Location: Northern California
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| Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2002 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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Actualy the ASA number (i.e. film speed)is the same for any size of film, (ASA100 35mm needs as much light as ASA100 4X5) the asa numbers tell you how much light the film requires, you dont have to adjust for film size.
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alecj
Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 853
Location: Alabama
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| Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2002 12:07 am Post subject: |
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| Why didn't you just get Paramount to make you a bi-post to Vivitar? I did and love mine? Elimates one set of connections that can go bad at the wrong time. |
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Henry
Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1646
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2002 1:45 am Post subject: |
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I second alecj's motion. Bi-post to Vivitar works great with my little 2800 unit.
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KeithNP
Joined: 30 Nov 2001
Posts: 26
Location: Loma Linda, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2002 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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Hmm... Let me think. $18 for a 5 foot PC-PC cord, or $67 bucks for a 3ft custom y-cord, $137 if I want the voltage protection. (Remember, I have a 283 and an SB-28, and they take different plugs). I actually have to spend another $20 or so for an adapter for the 283.
So, if I load 50 ASA polaroid p/n film, I can just set the 283 for 50asa, measure the distance, set the apeture, and shoot as before? I don't have to worry about guide numbers or coverage angles? |
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Les
Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 2682
Location: Detroit, MI
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| Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2002 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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On 2002-01-08 08:09, KeithNP wrote:
So, if I load 50 ASA polaroid p/n film, I can just set the 283 for 50asa, measure the distance, set the apeture, and shoot as before? I don't have to worry about guide numbers or coverage angles?
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You were good until the coverage angle part. set it for asa 50 use the same fnumber as before, and you should be fine. As long as you are using a normal lens on the 4x5 and not a wide. For the same reason you needed a difusion screen when you wanted to use that 28mm lens on 35.
Also you will lose depth of field.
How can that happen?
While this next statement can be argued, a nomral lens on 35mm format is 50mm. a very close to normal lens on 4x5 is 150mm or 3x.
If you shot with a 35mm lens on 35mm then a 105mm lens on 4x5 should work too, but you'd be safer with a 127 or 135 on the graphic.
Notice that f8 on a 35mm lens gives much more depth of field than f8 on a 127mm lens. This is why most LF shooters today try to shoot at f11 or above and that takes lots of power. 35mm shooters can get away with f4 or f2.8 with a flash. digital shooters with their smaller- than-35mm CCD get away with lightning-bug-powered flashes. |
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KeithNP
Joined: 30 Nov 2001
Posts: 26
Location: Loma Linda, CA
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| Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2002 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, that helps, but here is a follow-up question:
When using the flash on the camera, distance to subject was the same for both flash and camera. When I get a cord, I have the option of putting the flash, or the camera at different postitions. Is the distance to subject more important to the flash or the camera? If the distance to subject is 10 feet, then the light from the flash has to travel 20 feet if the flash is on the camera (flash - subject - camera). Does that mean I can put the flash 5 feet from the subject and the camera 15 feet away and still get the same exposure? |
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Dan Fromm
Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2144
Location: New Jersey
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| Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2002 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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On 2002-01-09 08:15, KeithNP wrote:
Ok, that helps, but here is a follow-up question:
When using the flash on the camera, distance to subject was the same for both flash and camera. When I get a cord, I have the option of putting the flash, or the camera at different postitions. Is the distance to subject more important to the flash or the camera? If the distance to subject is 10 feet, then the light from the flash has to travel 20 feet if the flash is on the camera (flash - subject - camera). Does that mean I can put the flash 5 feet from the subject and the camera 15 feet away and still get the same exposure?
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Flash-to-subject distance controls. Do the GN calculations using it. Doesn't matter where the camera is.
Sometimes -- depends on the situation -- I do close-up photos of fishes in tanks using a flash on a tripod close to the tank while standing some distance away from the tank. This calls for a long lens or a huge fish, of course, and isn't very practical with a Graphic.
Cheers,
Dan |
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essessem
Joined: 19 Feb 2003
Posts: 48
Location: California
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| Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2003 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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| As there are no stupid questions, I'm gonna fire away: does it matter which shutter speed I use with a 283 on my Crown Graphic? I figure since it's 1/60 on my 35mm, I should use 1/50 on the Crown. Only tried using this setup once and got no image. |
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RichS
Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1468
Location: South of Rochester, NY
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| Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2003 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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On 2003-02-27 11:31, essessem wrote:
As there are no stupid questions, I'm gonna fire away: does it matter which shutter speed I use with a 283 on my Crown Graphic? I figure since it's 1/60 on my 35mm, I should use 1/50 on the Crown. Only tried using this setup once and got no image.
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Technically, you could use any speed on your shutter with the 283. Your problem could have many reasons, but the most common may be that you didn't have the shutter on X Sync, or it may not have X Sync. That depends on your shutter.
The easiest way to test is to take the lens off the camera, hook it up to your flash, look through the lens at the flash and fire the shutter. If you see the flash, it's probably syncing right. You could also do this by looking at the GG. If your shutter doesn't say "X" anywhere or doesn't have a specific X setting, it probably doesn't have X Sync and won't work with an electronic flssh...
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Dan Fromm
Joined: 14 May 2001
Posts: 2144
Location: New Jersey
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| Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2003 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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On 2003-02-27 11:31, essessem wrote:
As there are no stupid questions, I'm gonna fire away: does it matter which shutter speed I use with a 283 on my Crown Graphic? I figure since it's 1/60 on my 35mm, I should use 1/50 on the Crown. Only tried using this setup once and got no image.
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Of course there are stupid questions, I ask them all the time.
If your shutter (what is it?) offers the option, set it to 'X'. If it doesn't offer the option, it is probably permanently on 'X'.
On 'X', it will sync with electronic flash at all shutter speeds. Best, in my opinion, to use the highest speed to minimize unwanted exposure from ambient light.
How to tell if it is at 'X'. Open camera, connect flast to shutter, put flash inside pointing camera pointing at the lens, point camera at wall, cock and fire shutter. If the flash can be seen on the wall, you're set. |
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rsdean
Joined: 27 Jun 2002
Posts: 52
Location: NE Maryland
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 2:16 am Post subject: |
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As there are no stupid questions, I'm gonna fire away: does it matter which shutter speed I use with a 283 on my Crown Graphic? I figure since it's 1/60 on my 35mm, I should use 1/50 on the Crown.
Since nobody has thrown this in yet, I'll demonstrate (I hope  ) my newly acquired camera knowledge. The reason that your 35mm synchs at 1/60 (as does my K1000) is that it uses a focal plane shutter and that's the fastest speed at which the shutter is ever fully open. So, curtain opens, flash fires, curtain closes. If you set it for a faster speed you get: Curtain opens, curtain starts to close, flash fires, subject is only partially lit on the film. The Crown (and Speed using the front shutter) uses a leaf shutter which always has an interval in which it is fully open, however fast the shutter speed. The flash is triggered when the blades of the shutter are fully open, and thus you can use any shutter speed.
In theory, this enables you to easily use a manual flash for fill flash, but I'm too new to have tried this yet.
Rob Dean
(Did I learn my lesson correctly? )
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 4081
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2003 2:49 am Post subject: |
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[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-26 19:35 ] |
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