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dberman51
Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Posts: 5 Location: Massachusetts
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Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:50 pm Post subject: Graflex 16mm projectors |
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Hello, I just joined this forum. I have recently repaired a Graflex 16 Model 915 16mm projector and would be happy to offer advice to anyone regarding any of the Graflex (or Singer or Telex) projectors.
I am familiar with quite a few 16mm projectors and I would say that the Graflex is one of the best engineered and constructed of all. I used to operate them many years ago in high school and knew that they performed well, but this is the first time that I have serviced one which provides a much better indication of internal quality.
-David |
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harrisburggrays
Joined: 30 May 2010 Posts: 6 Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 6:08 pm Post subject: Graflex 16mm projector model 820 |
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Hi David,
Bought a used Graflex 820 16mm projector last week and it's been working fine. Today, in the middle of a film, it just stopped running. The projector light and fan work, the reels just stopped moving. It won't rewind either. Took the back off and the motor is not running when I push the run button.
Could it be a blown fuse (does it even have fuses?), burned out motor? Not an electronics guy so not really sure what to check...
thanks for any help you (or anyone else here) might be able to provide!
Scott
PS - I have also been unable to find the 3 letter manufacturing code on this - it is not on the main cast above the projector lamp or on the serial number nameplate. The serial number is 271265 which doesn't help me much either...
thanks again |
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Henry
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 1636 Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania
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Posted: Mon May 31, 2010 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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Don't know if your motor has brushes, but if so that's what I'd check. A worn-down brush can stop a motor dead; it happened to my electric lawn mower two days ago. (First time in 40 years I ever replaced anything on that mower!) Also, check all wires into and out of the motor and its control switch(es). Sometimes old wiring with dried out insulation will short out, although in that case you'd see/smell something as well. Another possibility is a short in the motor windings, in which case the solution is a rewound motor: doable by a specialty shop, but not a cheap fix. Good luck! |
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harrisburggrays
Joined: 30 May 2010 Posts: 6 Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for your reply - I called a couple camera places today and no one services these anymore, not surprisingly. I'm probably better off just trying to buy another projector and take my chances. That's a shame, too, because it's really a nice projector and I'd just gotten comfortable with all the steps needed to load and rewind the film...
thanks again.. |
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:32 pm Post subject: |
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Have you googled 16mm projector repair + your zip code?
Have you tried local small appliance repair shops?
Have you tried local electronic repair shops?
You could send it to me but the shipping both ways would be $$$$$$$$. _________________ The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU. |
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harrisburggrays
Joined: 30 May 2010 Posts: 6 Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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Hi -
Thanks - yes, I did... even looked in the yellow pages (!) and called a couple repair and camera shops and no one in the area seems to repair them.
The projector probably weighs 40-50 lbs, you're right, shipping would be expensive. I could probably buy another one ebay for less than it would cost to ship and repair.
thanks again
Scott |
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tsgrimm
Joined: 04 Apr 2004 Posts: 158 Location: SE Michigan
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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I would just ask if they could check the electrical and tell you what's wrong instead of do you repair.
Locally owned office/school supply companies might be another source for reference to repair service or retried repairman willing to check it out for you. _________________ The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU. |
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Henry
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 1636 Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania
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Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:22 am Post subject: |
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Scott, I wouldn't take bets that you'd find a projector repair source at the Fort Wash. camera show. It's not that kind of show, and it's dwindled down to practically nothing over the last five years or so. It's hardly worth my driving down there anymore, only to find a small room of dealer tables where there used to be an entire ballroom and spillover into the corridors. uBuy done killed it off! OTOH, you never know what might turn up at these things.
It's a long shot, but you might inquire of your local area college and school district A-V folks as to whether they still use/service these machines, or can point you to a repair source. There has just got to be some old dutchman out there somewhere who works on these things, or I don't live in PA! |
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harrisburggrays
Joined: 30 May 2010 Posts: 6 Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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My dad (a repair genius of dishwashers, washing machines, you name it) would be able to diagnose it, but he now lives in Arizona so it gets back to shipping. Just have to wait until his next trip east, unless I find someone local. Even my neighbor, 80+, couldn't think of anyone that does small motor repairs.
It's not like I'm going to put it curbside, but may just have to sell it for parts (if there's even a market for that!), if I can't get it repaired.
Thanks again for everyone's suggestion - I appreciate the camaraderie! |
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dberman51
Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Posts: 5 Location: Massachusetts
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 2:05 am Post subject: |
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Just saw this thread, don't know if anyone is still listening, but I had a similar problem on my Graflex 915, caused by corroded contacts on the reversing switch (the black switch inside the projector operated by the thread-forward-reverse lever).
I had to carefully disconnect the wires from the switch, remove the switch, take it apart, and file the contacts. I used a "points file" which we used to use on automobile ignition points. Fixed it perfectly.
-David |
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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A points file may be too harsh on switch contacts. Burnishing tool are sold at electrical supply or electronic parts stores.
example: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/GC-ELECTRONICS-9337-/22-910 _________________ The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU. |
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Henry
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 1636 Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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I've always used a pencil-tip typewriter eraser (remember those?). Or an emery board (fine side) if something a little more aggressive is called for. Even a pencil eraser is often all that is needed. Works well on battery contacts, too. Might save you a trip to a specialty store, and some $.¢¢ as well. |
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dberman51
Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Posts: 5 Location: Massachusetts
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Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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45PSS wrote: | A points file may be too harsh on switch contacts. Burnishing tool are sold at electrical supply or electronic parts stores. |
Normally I would agree with you, but the reversing switch is a heavy-duty GE device with large bronze contacts, which were very badly pitted in my case. A burnishing tool is usually used on delicate relay contacts, but I think it would not have been up to the task of repairing my switch. Certainly a pencil eraser, which is good for removing oxidation, would not have helped at all.
-David |
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