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Sjixxxy · Joined: 27 Apr 2004 Posts: 109 Location: Midwest US

I posted this a day ago on APUG and havent' gotten any responses yet. Maybe someone here can be a help. Instead of reposting, I'll just link it up. Original Post

Also, something I've thought of in the last few hours. I think it may be possible to get an accurate enough slower shutter speed then 1/10th using a skill based method of firing the curtain on T, and quickly firing it again as soon as the the curtain makes the snap sound from opening. Finding what tension would keep it at around 1/2, 1 sec may be usuful when I need to go that slow (My leafs all break, or stick at those speeds)

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K. Praslowicz Photo | Watershed - Photos from the Lake Superior basin

Dan Fromm · Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2148 Location: New Jersey

Sjixxxy · Joined: 27 Apr 2004 Posts: 109 Location: Midwest US

RichS · Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2004 3:52 am Post subject:

You could accomplis the same thing with the leaf shutters on "B" and using a release cable. It would probably be much more accurate also. I doubt you could get faster than 1/10, but you should be able to get that close. I doubt you could get faster than 1/2 with the FP shutter?

Don't worry about being 'cheap'. There's a lot of us around here

I might spend 700 on a camera, but won't spend 300 for a good shutter for a favorite lens.... (and can't after buying the cameras

)

By the way, have you tried the simple Ronsonol flush with your leaf shutters? It has brought back to life many of mine and shown no ill affects. There's quite a few threads around here about it...

Sjixxxy · Joined: 27 Apr 2004 Posts: 109 Location: Midwest US

Sjixxxy · Joined: 27 Apr 2004 Posts: 109 Location: Midwest US

Well. I picked up some Ronsonol and injected a few squirts into the rapax that wouldn't work past 1/10th. Took a few firings of the shutter, but now all the speeds are shooting snappy and appear accurate.

And as an unexpected added bonus, the aperture arm really moves easy now, as does the ring to select shutter speed. I just always took the stickyness as normal.

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K. Praslowicz Photo | Watershed - Photos from the Lake Superior basin

Henry · Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 1:30 am Post subject:

Attention, doubters and scoffers! Positive feedback from a satisfied customer! And---it makes a great martini! Just remember to remove your lenses before imbibing.

Top · Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 1:57 am Post subject:

No scoffer here!
I've used it on Raphexes, Graphexes (same shutter), Supermatics, Prontors, and all manner of Compurs, several Japanese knock-offs, and the odd Contax/Kiev and have never been disappointed.
Top

Sjixxxy · Joined: 27 Apr 2004 Posts: 109 Location: Midwest US

Ok. The Ronsonol fixed up the one that wouldn't work lower then 1/10th. Then I gave a squirt to the other Rapax which fired at all speeds, but was gettig sluggish. Now that one hangs open at 1/10th and lower. Does that sound odd? I gave to a secod flush and it is still sticking at the low speeds. Should I try giving it an overnight soak?

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K. Praslowicz Photo | Watershed - Photos from the Lake Superior basin

glennfromwy · Joined: 29 Nov 2001 Posts: 903 Location: S.W. Wyoming

Let it dry out good. Sometimes any liquid inside will do that. You can also --- carefully --- blow it out with canned air to speed things up. Occasionaly, the flush will loosen a piece of foreign junk in there that gets into the works, too.

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Glenn

"Wyoming - Where everybody is somebody else's weirdo"

Sjixxxy · Joined: 27 Apr 2004 Posts: 109 Location: Midwest US

Its been dryed out for about 2 days now.

I'll go with the relocated hunk theory.

The shutter speed ring is still very tight compared to how the other one ended up. Maybe I should try flushing it again.

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K. Praslowicz Photo | Watershed - Photos from the Lake Superior basin

Henry · Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 7:30 pm Post subject:

Underneath the front element of your Rapax there may be a retaining ring (as on my Graphex). Try loosening this ring (I used needle-nose pliers as a spanner) a tad and see if that doesn't free up your shutter speed dial. It worked for me. The manual cautions against overtightening this ring.

Sjixxxy · Joined: 27 Apr 2004 Posts: 109 Location: Midwest US

That probably will help. The retaining ring on the tigher one I had to use a pliers to get moving, while the ring on the easy to move one I was able to remove by hand.

Ifgured while I had the ring off, that I'd take a peek under the hood. A spring fell off of something so I had to crack open theother shutter to see where. Got that back in place and had to give myself a quick crash course on how to get the dial back on so all the speeds worked.

Figured that out and put the good shutter back together. While I had the other one open I gave it a few squirts of ronsonol directly onto what I believe is called the delay train. Shutter fires fineuntil that thing gets activated, so I figured it would be the best place to go.

Ah yeah, and the back fide of the face plate where it meets the shutter dial was pretty much glue. I cleaned that off so hopefully it will make it move a bit freely when I put it back together.

All this is fun. (Until I totally destory something)

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K. Praslowicz Photo | Watershed - Photos from the Lake Superior basin

45PSS · Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2005 3:35 am Post subject:

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-25 11:13 ]