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[ebrown27]

I received my 4 x 5 Speed Graphic today. It has a Graphic Supermatic (X) shutter. The lens is a Kodak Ektar f4.5 152mm ET 1080. There is a problem. The ring that sets the shutter speeds is very tight and is very difficult to move. Any suggestions?

The Camera's serial number is 846000. Which may fall into line with the Lens which was manufactured in 1949.

I cannot find the point to extend the bellows where the lens will be in focus at infinity. After the weather gets better and I can get outside I will find it by trial and error.

The FPS is different from the other Speed Graphics that I have, as there is nothing but a key and the mumbers on the side and a slide switch. The FPS is open when the red 0 shows in the window. There is a switch to control the firing of either shutter. The front trip does not work as the wire that comes down the front of the camera (extreme left side) can not reach anything to trip the shutter. So it must be fired manually. The solenoid has in a circle HR and I do not know how to check the solenoid.
Any help will be greatfully appreciated.
Ed

[ This Message was edited by: ebrown27 on 2004-12-11 16:57 ]

[45PSS]

The info I sent you via email may match the New shutter, sounds like it. The supermatic speed ring may get a little easier with use, if not it may need a CLA.

With the camera open, turn focus knob until the rail is fully retracted into the camera then foward until the rail has moved foward 1/8-3/16 of an inch and lock focus. Fold any infinity stops down so they will not interfere with the standard moving down the rails. Set both shutters to open. Unlock the front standard and pull toward the end of the rail(bed) while watching the ground glass. If you still cannot find infinity then there is a problem with that lens. A 152mm will focus infinity around center of the camera bed.
Charles


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While a picture may be worth a thousand words, a quality photograph is worth a million.

[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2004-12-11 22:36 ]

[troublemaker]

Sounds like Charles has you covered on the FPS, but the numbers are simply the shutter speeds. The lever on the very bottom of the side panel engages a retardng mechanism that split the speeds, or rather adds resistance to the bottom roller spring that winds up as you trun the key to your desired speed. Basically you have 1/30, 1/125, and 1/500 with the lever forward (the retard engaged), or 1/50, 1/250, and 1/1000 with the lever back (disengaged). You also have the Time setting and zero indicates that the shutter is open. Sort of helpful so if you are using the front leaf shutter you know the Focal plane is open, sort of like leaving a dark slide in etc... It is s simplified version of the older Graflex FPS I believe, which offers, as you may well know, quite an array of settings.
Does the Supermatic shutter work other than being stiff. It may only require that the face be removed and the adjustment plate be cleaned and replaced (thourough CLA for long term and dependable service). How are the speeds? They have a tempermental retard. Often many of the settings will seem the same, and then seem to work.
stephen

[ebrown27]

[ebrown27]

[45PSS]

Remove both the front and rear cells.

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[troublemaker]

Yeah the front lens cells readily unscrew. The face plate and shutter speed dial are easy enough to service on the Supermatic shutter, but taking the works out is another story entirely. The works are held in by screws in from the back, and there are some tricks to getting all the springs back in the right places when reassembling. On top of that, when the back comes off the diaphram comes out of its guides and getting all this back together properly isn't everyone's cup of tea. Another fun thing is that there are a couple springs that even if they could talk wouldn't tell you where they go. Often when a shutter doesn't work properly it is because a spring might have: a.popped off its seat, b. was not reinstalled properly, or c. has become invisible (sorry, but they do this to me occasionally if they can get on the floor, they tend to reappear about a half hour later if I do not vacume). If you are going to attack this shutter, look at it very carefully and take a couple photos of where things are as you dissassemble it. see if you can figure out how it works, and perhaps why it is not working before you think it neccesarry to remove the works. Understanding how it works and why will be helpful in getting it back together.
The Focal shutter curtain has metalic contacts that are positioned along the side of the curtain so as to synch properlly with a bulb flash. I just tried one I was working on but I think the contacts need cleaning. However, and maybe Charles can help me with this one...
Charles, a thin circular brass plate (shim stock looking) with a cutout came unglued and I believe it was down next to the lower roller glued to the body. Does this need to make contact with anything or have anything to do with the Flash mechanism. It is not straight forward if this is just a glued in cover, or if it does something. It is on a side Kalart pacemaker Speed about 1950-55 model.
Speeding is fun...
Stephen

[ebrown27]

Thank all of you very much.
All that I need to do is see if there are some points that need lubing on the speed setting ring. It is so tight that I cannot set the speeds. It was on 1/25 when I got it and with difficulty I moved it to T so I could see on the ground glass how the focus was working. Now I cannot move it away from the T setting.

It does appears that the rangefinder is very close, but I have not checked it fully as it is too cold to go outside. I can check the 6 ft range in the house. But when it is right I need to check infinity and then the mid range and keep going back to 6ft, infinity and midrange until it is correct; if things are measured like most of the things I worked on in the Metrology lab.

I thought I would like to see how the speeds check out to at least the point that they at will change speeds at each point, even if they are not accurate.

If I remove the front and back cells I should be able to flush the movement out with naptha to remove what ever gunk as accumulated over the years. I really need to send it out for CLA, but I have one Medalist being set to take 120 spools, that is pricy and it's lens and shutter is being CLA and that is was not without it's own expense + I sent another lens/shutter to Mr. Ruth for CLA and that was not inexpensive either. So this shutter may have to wait for a while if I can clean it and lub the shutter speed setting ring. I have another Medalist that needs to be CLA, I am working on the shutter on it myself, it was locked up but is now working --to a degree.

I sure do not want to take the Supermatic apart for I would just have to send someone the parts in a basket to be put back together and I could probably by a new shutter for what that would cost. (G)

So some things I will have to learn to do myself or it will have to wait until Spring or even Summer to send out. I bought Basic Camera Repair, Graphic Repair manual and Medalist repair manual from Mr.Ed Romney. But like all manuals they leave a few things to the imagination. TV has ruined my imagination.

I am also trying to Organize a Camera Club with a darkroom for large format cameras so I am busy this winter. I have found a newspaper in town whose owner is a photography and has started using film again, who is very interested in assisting me with that project. And if any of you have any experience along that line email me at horsefly_38866atyahoodotcom. You can read that I am sure, but may the robots cannot.
Thanks again for all your help
Ed

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-- Unknown

[ This Message was edited by: ebrown27 on 2004-12-14 07:39 ]

[troublemaker]

Hey good luck to you and your club venture.
Who is Mr Ruth?
Check your private messages...
regards,
Stephen