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troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

I am curious because I have some interest to do some Aero Photogrpahy in the future. Has anyone had success using thier Graphics for this purpose? I have a friend who loves to fly small planes and i happen to have a few Graphics. I would like to use my Speed 23, but bet i could get some nice transparencies using the 4x5 if i can get the RF dialed in, but that would all depend on the lens because it is a topRF using cam. I will post some separate RF questions later regarding external adjustment and whether or not the side KAlart can be set for different lense lengths or is it restricted to the stock lens. they are very close, close enough to stop down the differnce, but i want them dead on eventually. GG focussing will be out of the question in the air or on the water.
'til then

Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

Unless your friend is barnstorming at 150 feet, Ground glass is the ONLY way to go.

No No No you don't use the ground glass in the plane, you open it up and focus on infinity on the ground, then lock the rails. Then it's just point and shoot! And Grafmatics will be your best friend.

Infinity is defined usually as 1500 x focal length, occasionally is 2000. but a 5 Inch lens hit infinity at only 625 feet. Unless he's got a chopper, He'll be flying around 1500-2000 feet.... no need for a Range finder.

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

I am thinking pretty low level shots, 200 ft or so. I need to speak with the pilot and see just what we can do here off L.A harbor; the slower the air speed the better. A couple LAYC boat owners expressed a little interest in having some air shots done on opening day or? There are other races to be done, and the ultimate goal is to capture some low levels of the boats going for the Hawaii record coming through Molokai channel at the end of the next Trans-Pac race. Nothing like an 80 foot boat sailing/surfing over big waves. Someone said i would have to have some kind of stabilizer gyro? I think not. I have seen large and medium format work done with hand held cameras that is sharp as can be. But the photos of Pywacket finishing on record time a couple years back are very blurred (have to look at them form accross the room) as if shot on 35mm from a helicopter. Disney is taking delivery of a new boat 85ft and will attempt his own record at least a couple more times and i have an aquaintance who takes care of his boats, and have done work for them through our shop. However, i may be on a boat racing which would nullify that.
For landscapes i see the point and shoot part of what you have sharred.
I will have to set up the lenses i choose with a polarizer probably out on the water. I definatley use one when i do 35mm form small skiffs.
I was thinking rollbacks, mimaya RB67's which i am currently looking for. found one on ebay but am fede up with ebay. i get nothing but junk. they can kiss my ass. this guy was rude because i asked if the thing actually worked. Gosh, the nerve i have in asking if something actually works.
oh well,

steve

45PSS · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 2:21 am Post subject:

The 4x5 repair manual download will tell you all you need to know about the top RF adjustments and the article on making your own cams will be helpfull also.
Now, where was it that I read about 4x5 pacemakers having their bellows ripped out when trying to shoot from helicopters in Viet Nam? Was it in large format help? Seems they made a special sheetmetal housing for the bellows/bed to protect it from the wind. I don't think I would open a bellows camera in 120mph + wind.

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

120mph? I was thinking more like 65-75 near stall speed. But hey, i would sure like to read that article!!! I could easily make a light gauge sheet metal wind gaurd, even incorproate a lens shade into the deal. Or maybe i should just quit this silly idea of taking photographs. it is starting to not seem worth the trouble...

45PSS · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 3:44 am Post subject:

http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?topic=400&forum=15&34
last post;page3

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

Ouch, no sleep heading into finals and papers.
I want to mess with my new (old) camera stuff...
Yes, I read the post. Certainly I can understand what would happen to Graphic under the big whop whop (not italian, save that for Durst posts) of the Rotor blades. Bellows floppin, film a poppin, a shoppin we would go...
I have a Century I was thinking about dumping, but hanging onto for parts. What do you think about mounting a semi permanent aluminum cover/ with lens shiled and incorporate a handle and cable release? Have to think about it, I might just get a camera more suited for it in that case if it were to take a lot of time to make etc... I just happen to work at a machine shop part of the time and we know sheet metal guy down the street. Oh, and what about black or gold anodizing with a flat black inside the lens hood? I'll sell them on ebay (no that would mean i'd have to make them so they do not work)and make enough money to buy a Hasselbla. Has anyone noticed I have an issue with that name?
Sorry, I am tired and bored and have been living on burnt peanut butter cookies and French Roast for three days gettin papers done. Can't be serious all the time. But I think I could make this cover with only a littel fuss. Easy enough to pattern it first. anodizing is every couple weeks and I could just throw it in with the air cylinder parts. What do you think, Black, Gold, Silver, Red or Blue? Mind that it would be as easy or easier to do on the Crown 45, but I would pick up a junker with good bellows to do it. Yup, thin gauge brushed aluminum plate, hard anodized black with polished SS pan head fasteners.
Am I on the right track here, or am i that tired that i am in looloo land?
steve

45PSS · Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2003 2:53 am Post subject:

Just opening the airplane's window and only putting the lens up to the window opening might be safe. One could test in a car with a friend on the freeway in light traffic.
What about an 18% gray on the outside one?
C

_________________
The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

18% gray card bellows shield?
Yes, I will have some excellent oppertunities to experiment with the car window idea next week on my winter trip to Arizona. Also, I ran a roll of film through my Speed 23 to test the focal plane and lens shutter speeds and roll film holder using the RF on a tripod. Very nice. 105 ektar. I belive this is the unit that was priced higher than the 45's. Lens is 1947.
Anyway, my origianl intention was to use this because of the faster speeds, but it is such a jewel I am not sure i can ever take it outside ever again. Do you think a working 1/250 or 1/400 lens shutter will suffice in a flying machine. I now have a 162mm Optar I was thinking would work well for the sailing shots. MAybe I will need a longer lens, but i intend to fit a 2x3 board for both 135 Optar and 162, and attempt to frame in at 6x6, but the idea being good edge to edge sharpness at about f11.
When i tested the shutters, I was also checking my #22 and 23 knobby roll back. Yuck. I have a RB67 back on the way, and am thinking about grabbing a late model rh-10 with flat film rollers and starting over and checking with the provia film i would actually be using. That stuff made my Trioptar look impressive. Maybe I am goofy, but for being a cheapy lens, it works really well,and every exposure has been right on with the snappy littel graflex shutter, but only 1/200 available. I need about 1/250 at the least i think for sailing action, but want 400 so as to stop down as much as possible. Shooting from end to end it is easy to loose depth of field from bow to stern or mast head to deck. Can be 50 to 80 feet. Also, people like to see themselves clearly in the photos. Since I sail, I have heard the comments, like "hey, I saw your picture on the cover of so and so."
Well, hey, i gotta get some much needed rest...
I'll pass along the wind gaurd idea at the shop tomorrow, but i think it may have to be hard coat gray (nearly black) because then i the owner would slide it in with his parts without a worry.
Maybe I can draft a picture over the break and post it somehow and see what folks think. First, the highway Century window test. I hypothesize that any flutter of the bellows will send me packing to the sctch pad...
Good evening,
steve

jdman · Joined: 13 May 2001 Posts: 302 Location: Midwest

Why not the Graflex XL,Has rangefinder, good lens, no bellows, ground glass, and will take film backs. Russ

troublemaker · Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 715 Location: So Cal

Do you have one I can borrow for a couple years?

t.r.sanford · Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 6:21 am Post subject:

Back in the '50s and '60s, it was reported that people using "Speed Graphics" and other handheld bellows cameras for aerial photography first focused at infinity (as described in an earlier post), then wound wide, sturdy cloth tape around the front of the body, under the bed and over the bellows, ending with the front standard.

I was called upon to take some ad hoc aerial photos, in connection with a training exercise, while in the Army (c.1965), and I mummified my "Century" with a robust green duct tape (esteemed by the Army for its myriad uses). It protected the bellows from the slipstream very well -- I was in the rear seat of a two-seat light liaison aircraft with the right-hand door removed, so things were pretty windy.

Nowadays, you can get much better cleaning compounds to remove the adhesive residue afterwards!