Graflex.org

wmichaelb · Joined: 31 Aug 2002 Posts: 10 Location: Cincinnati, OH

Hi! I recently purchased what I believe to be a late model Crown Graphic (serial no. 933482) from a friend whose grandfather bought it new. I have some reeeeaaaalll basic questions. I have purchased a manual and the tenth edition of "Graphic Graflex Photography", but haven't found the answers to these questions:

1.) The camera was equipped with the standard focusing screen. Is the "Graflok back" the lever/spring arrangement built into the back of the camera body that the focusing screen assembly clips into, or is it the assembly that comes off the back and contains the screen? If so, how do I remove the screen to insert a film or Polaroid back?

2.) What's the difference between the 545 and 545i backs? Is one better than the other? I have seen 545i backs advertised as newly manufactured. Any recommendations for Polaroid film to get started with?

3.) I have an interest in macro photography, and the idea of taking 4X5" macro photos really intrigues me. But it's a bit awkward to figure out the size ratio of a particular composition in order to determine the appropriate bellows factor. Does anyone have a suggestion as to where I could get a table of bellows extension versus focusing distance versus lens focal length? Or do I need the fiber optic probe for my Gossen Luna Pro to measure the light on the focusing screen itself (TTL LF!)?

4.) Out of curiosity, I've perused the archives of photo.net and this august forum, but found no listing correlating serial number with year of manufacture. I've also checked the crosspiece on the rack for the legendary three digit code, but to no avail. Does anyone have a suggestion on a resource that might list such information?

I'm sure that I'll think of more, but these would be a wonderful start. Thanks in advance to anyone who helps!

alecj · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 853 Location: Alabama

RichS · Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2002 4:04 am Post subject:

I'll take a shot at 2 & 3

I do own both the 545 and 545I. The 545 is all metal and rugged. Works fine. The I is all plastic, rugged and works fine. There are very minor design differences, but I doubt they affect operation. When I grab a holder to shoot, it's the I. For me, it looks better to me. Maybe just because my I is in better shape?
As far as film... I'd recommend Types 52, 55 and 59. 52 is B&W and needs to be coated after the print seperation. There is a Type 54 B&W that doesn't need coating, but for some odd reason, I like 52 better. Type 59 is color print. All I can say is that it's "okay". I've never liked Polaroid colors and rarely use it. But sometimes color is called for... Then there's type 55. This is what I shoot the most of. It provides a B&W print _or_ a negative. The print is as good or better than the 52. The negative is outstanding, and you don't need a darkroom to produce it.
I would recommend going over the film product sheets at the polaroid site and then just buying the ones that interest you to try for yourself...

As to macro and bellows compensation. I've used quite a few methods including the probe on my Luna Pro. Manual calcs are a pain and I often make a mistake. I bought a 'calculator' from calumet that works great. It is a 'target' piece that you put in your pic at the subject. Then a ruler to measure the size of it on the GG. The ruler shows the compensation. It lacks some things I'd like. I tried some available on the net and nothing else was better. So I made my own. If you're interested, go to http://www.southbristolviews.com and look under "Close up exposure calculating" on the menu near the bottom.

Rich...

Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

Photomacography can be done fairly well, but once you get above about 3.5x then things get very dark and you are better off with more stable equipment. I currently have three Micro Tessar lenses, a 72mm a 48mm and a 16mm.

Now the 16 promises the greatest enlargement, (nearly 29x with my focus tube), but you'll need an arc light on the subject to see anything on the ground glass as the exposure factor is (29+1)^2 or 900! ( if the meter says 1", it'll take 15minutes + reciprocity.)

And you'll also need a very stable floor and table. Even then the camera just isn't designed for that kind of precision. It's better to make a smaller image and blow it up on the enlarger.

As for calculating the bellows factor, I simply divide the distance from the lens to the ground glass by the focal length of the lens. The answer is in stops. Best when used in inches as I have a hard time dividing 410mm by 203mm. Easier to say 16/8=2 any error will be eaten up by reciprocity. it even works on odd numbers... 15inch bellows / 6 inch lens= 2.5stops

alecj · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 853 Location: Alabama

Here's the ref. to the Graflok back description I mentioned, but failed to post.

http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/features.html#GraflokBack

Dan Fromm · Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2120 Location: New Jersey

wmichaelb · Joined: 31 Aug 2002 Posts: 10 Location: Cincinnati, OH

Thanks to all you folks for your time and trouble! I've learned a lot, and will begin first by picking up a Polaroid and a few film backs. I also need to finish the darkroom that's in process just to my left. This macro process really intrigues me all the more. I'll try and post some shots somewhere once I get something done.