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Pre Anniversary kalart problem

 
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 1:15 pm    Post subject: Pre Anniversary kalart problem Reply with quote

I just took delivery of my very first Speed Graphic - a beautiful Pre Anniversary with the gray metal and a silver side-mounted kalart. The camera looks like it was purchased back in the '30s and then never taken out of the case. The problem - everything works perfectly except the rangefinder. There is no movement of the split image when I turn the focus knob. The linkage moves as it should but no response looking through the window.

I took it apart (just removed it from the camera and removed the back plate) and the grease in the linkage is rather stiff. But, before I knew it, a small spring has fallen onto my work table. I believe the end of the spring, where it attaches to an arm of the linkage, has broken off.

Is there any photos, diagrams, parts breakdown, or help of any kind on repairing these older Kalarts? I find lots of help for adjusting them, but I need to somehow figure out exactly what this spring attaches to (both ends) before I can even worry about adjusting it. Amazing - one little spring has put this beautiful camera on my shelf
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Henry



Joined: 09 May 2001
Posts: 1439
Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using the search feature of the board (hint, hint), entering "kalart," I came up with this (among many others):

http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6301&highlight=kalart

There may be a picture among the links there that will help.
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Henry. Not sure why people automatically assume that a new poster has not tried that search feature I have tried it and also looked at all the links in the page you mentioned and (RATS!) none even show a picture of my very early rangefinder, and most of them are just concerned with adjusting a rangefinder, not repairing
On my camera, the linkage does not enter the Kalart from inside the camera body (through the body) but has linkage the enters the bottom of the kalart from the outside.

Anyway...
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Am I allowed to post a link where I have some pictures? Will try just in case. These will show what my rangefinder looks like and where the problem resides should anyone have any ideas - http://www.pbase.com/rsweatt/kalart
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3205
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Not sure why people automatically assume that a new poster has not tried that search feature

We'll let you slide on this one as the prehistoric RF you have is not fully covered in the links provided in those older posts.

Quote:
Am I allowed to post a link where I have some pictures?

Absolutely!

Now when I open that link I see 4 pictures on the top row followed by 3 on the bottom row. Going left to right, top to bottom, the spring is #2 and the partially assembled Kalart laying beside the camera bed is #5.
All Kalarts are spring set to the close focus position when there is nothing blocking the path of the actuator arm.

Looking at pic #5 the arm appears to be scraped just left of the slot for the screw that attaches it to the body. Is there a hole there?
The closed end of the spring goes on the post at the top left corner of the RF body. The spring should be rotated so that it does not drag on the brass part or lay against the body. I notice a hole in the edge of the brass part by the leaf spring at the bottom of the case. Is there a similar hole in the top edge of the brass part? If so attach the spring there and check for proper operation; if not then attach the open end of the spring to the post on the end of the arm attached to the main RF body. The spring will just slip over the posts and will be held in place by tension and close fitting covers when assembled.
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks 45PSS. After reading your post I chatted with a friend who has a simular model and he took his off and sent me a picture.



Mine is now back together and operating. Now I have to figure out how to get into the compartment of the Kalart to clean the mirror and prism.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3205
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although your pictures don't show them clearly there are 2 screws on both ends that you remove and slide the outer cover off. On the end with 3 screws the center screw is the close focused distance adjustment. The screw at mid body is the intermediate focused distance adjustment and the eccentric on the rails is the infinity adjustment.
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rsweatt



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
Posts: 38
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

45PSS, can you elaborate on the "eccentric on the rails" infinity adjustment? I am not sure what/where that is. I'll look around the site and see if can find it in the meantime.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3205
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
can you elaborate on the "eccentric on the rails" infinity adjustment?

Sorry, I was thinking in terms of the internal actuating arm versions.
Look at the bed attachment flex points. I cannot tell from your pictures if there is an adjustment at the bed brace to the rail rear connector or at the connector to the rail contact bar. Infinity is normally set with the rails .040 .010 forward from fully retracted. Infinity on that RF may be accomplished by the internal arm connection to the brass cam part.

I would set the camera up on a tripod and point the RF at a target at least 5000 feet away and position the rails so that the RF indicated infinity focus then see where the rails are. If they are no more than 1/8 (.125) inch forward from fully retracted I'd call it good and set the focus scale, lens, and infinity stop at that position.
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