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peter k
Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Posts: 207 Location: Sedona Az
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 4:39 pm Post subject: Shutter release cable |
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Yesterday I was taking some slower shots, 15th of a second, 10th ect, on the tripod, but its very difficult to screw in the cable release as the front part of the camera is in the way. I can just barely get in it a few turns, but not much and don't want to continue doing this, as it will mess up the threads.
It doesn't need much.
So the question is, can I put a spacer behind the lens, to move it out a little more?
Or will this somehow change the focal plane on the ground glass, (film) and perhaps require readjustment of the range finder?
I don't think it would make any difference as you have to adjust the focus anyway.
But wanted to verify before I did it.
The only other solution would be to take the lens out and rotate it clockwise, but then the trigger will be on top, and harder to support the camera and reach the trigger.
Background:
Currently my 3.25 x 4.25 Anniversary Speed's, (Grapflex Optar 135mm 4.7) lens, is set up with the trigger and shutter release cable location directed to the left side as you face the camera. This really works well for me, being right handed, holding the camera body with my hand through the left strap, and supporting the camera with my right hand underneath, and being able to trigger the shutter with my right forefinger. |
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Henry
Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 1636 Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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Here I'll reveal (once again) my ignorance, as I know nothing about the 3x4 Graflex. I do know that on my Century, you can rotate the square lensboard CW or CCW 90º or 180º and thus change the lens position to whichever you need at the moment. Don't know if this is possible on the 3x4 though. |
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | So the question is, can I put a spacer behind the lens, to move it out a little more? |
Yes, but you will have to reset the infinity stops and rangefinder.
Have you tried removing the lens board, screwing the cable release in fully, then reinstalling the lens board into the front standard?
Looked for a cable release with a shorter support between the flex housing and screw tip?
Many shutters of that era have an index pin on the back that prevents the shutter from rotating should the lock ring come loose. The pin (a special screw) can be removed or a new hole drilled into the board for it on wooden boards. The standard position is 9 o'clock. I clock my shutters from 7:30 to 8:30. _________________ The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU. |
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peter k
Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Posts: 207 Location: Sedona Az
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting.. removed the lens, and the lens locking nut and see the pin you are discussing. On the back side, hidden by the board, a scrolled, etched in the lens metal... LW 3/11/46
Thanks LW, whereever you are, it's still working very well, thank you ...
I like the concept of rotating the lens on the lens board.
Now my lens board has a spring trigger also attached, with two 'screw bolts'. So if I change its position, that's three holes.
I cringed messing with LW's original lens board.
Looked on e-bay.. the lens boards they have are to large, sent an e-mail to one who appears that he makes them.
Meanwhile the lens rotated CCW about an inch would do it.
Quote: | ... screwing the cable release in fully, then reinstalling the lens board into the front standard? |
Yes, this would work, but it conflicts with the trigger if you wanted to shoot 'normal'. Without tripod, and holding it with two hands.
The easiest would be to shim it, but after replacing the mirror glass in the rangefinder, I've been there and done that, but.. again... sigh.
If I went this way, what is recommended to shim it with?
Decisions .. decisions... |
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45PSS
Joined: 28 Sep 2001 Posts: 4081 Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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I can make lens boards also.
Graflex A: 4 inch square
Graflex C: 3 1/4 inch square
1/4 inch thick Baltic Birch plywood. _________________ The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU. |
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peter k
Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Posts: 207 Location: Sedona Az
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Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 12:00 am Post subject: |
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By gosh 45pss your very versatile. I may well do that, but for now I took a different, creative approach.
I made a small bracket out of L shaped sheet metal that attaches the cable release to the front threaded bellows frame by its screw and adjustment knob.
Removing the threaded part of the Cable release, so only the point goes in at its slight angle.
The exterior housing of the cable release is attached, and held in place when used, (pressing on the plunger) to the sheet metal bracket by a #10 wirer connector, (as if it were the wire going into it), and is being JB welded to the bracket, and curing as we speak.
So it is attached and held in place by the camera body, not the lens, and does not need to be treadled, or need to go straight in.
Alas.. I will not be able to use it if I want to adjust the front bellows for a tall building shot.
But then, I haven't needed to shoot a tall building as of yet.
Life is good. |
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Dan Fromm
Joined: 14 May 2001 Posts: 2120 Location: New Jersey
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peter k
Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Posts: 207 Location: Sedona Az
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Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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ah ha... thank you...
my work around functioned very well yesterday in the field, but a little concerned of losing the bellows adjustment nut, as I take it off and on in the weeds and high grass Were going to Ace today to see if we can find a substitute, and keep the original in a safe place.
I used an older, frayed cable release, for the experiment, and will keep this item bookmarked for the future. |
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