Graflex.org

FixerFiend · Joined: 05 Sep 2003 Posts: 42 Location: Washington D.C.

Please bear with me, as I am brand new to Graflex. That said, I recently acquired a 2x3 Speed that was manufatured in '47 that came w/ an Adapt a Roll620. I have not tried to load it yet,(am awaiting delivery of 620 and 120 film from J&C). Can anyone explain to me the exact procedure for MOUNTING this contraption on the Speed. I have read this sites explanation and would appreciate another more detailed accont. Bear in mind that this camera has a Graflex back,not a Graflok. Will it work???

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Les · Joined: 09 May 2001 Posts: 2682 Location: Detroit, MI

Since its common to confuse the names, I will ask: are you sure you have a GRAFLEX back and not a GRAPHIC back?
A Graflex back (at least for post war mini) has only one slider at the top of the back and the ground glass has to be removed before you can put a film holder in. Film holders are sloted along the long side and are held in by the slider.

A Graphic back AKA Spring Back, keeps the ground glass with the camera via two flat springs. The springs and the ground glass hold the film against the camera to keep the dark in.

If you really have a Graflex back you're sunk. I've never seen an Adaptaroll for a Graflex back.

If you have a spring/graphic back then you slip the roll film holder in between the ground glass and the body, just like you would for a cut film holder.

Adaptarolls came in three sizes 2x3 3x4 and 4x5.
They are all practically the same holder, they just add spacers to the top and bottom of the holder to keep the film centered for the larger formats. Maybe it's possible that you have a roll holder for one of the bigger cameras?

An adaptaroll for 3x4 is worth a lot more than one for a 2x3. If this is the case, you may be better off selling this one and getting one that fits.

Les

FixerFiend · Joined: 05 Sep 2003 Posts: 42 Location: Washington D.C.

Thanks Les. You are correct. It is a double spring GRAGHIC back, it looks like the width is correct, its just that the thing looked too thick compared to a Film holder. I also got about 9 or 10 sheet film holders all with dark slides. It just seemed that when I tried to slip the adapt a roll in that it would rag the springs out eventually. Also since I'm so inexperienced, I didn't know if the image could penetrate the GG to the film itself. Can you recommend a good book for a total amateur?? I 'm also to recieve a 4x5 that has a Graphlok back. I know these seem much more desireable.I have some experience developing 35mm B&W w/ the plastic type tank and reels that adjust to 120. So hopefully I can get by with some 620 for awhile, then switch to more available 120. Will 220 work in the adapt a roll??Thanks alot for your time and am finding this Orq. VERY helpful.

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clnfrd · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2003 11:12 pm Post subject:

You are right about the fact that the Adapt-a-roll puts undue stress on spring backs. In fact, they offered a kit that included hex-head thumb screws with tapped holes to replace the screws that hold the spring back to the camera body. You would remove the original spring back screws, and replace them with the tapped hex-head screws, and secure the Adapta-a-roll to the camera with a strap attached to the hex-heads with yet another pair of screws. If you wanted to put the spring back back on, you used the hex-head screws instead of the originals. They are easy to remove and replace. Whew! Hope you got all of that. Of course, you couldn't use the ground glass with this arrangement. I have that kit on a Busch Pressman. Don't know about the 220 film. I use 120 film...and have a few spare 620 spools for take-ups. I wouldn't leave the Adapt-a-roll inserted in the spring back any longer than necessary to get the shots. It WILL eventually make the back sloppy, and you can get light leaks when using conventional film holders. I know. I've been there. Fred.

FixerFiend · Joined: 05 Sep 2003 Posts: 42 Location: Washington D.C.

Fred you are a genious!! indeed, rolling around in the nice case that came with this outfit were thre EXACT tapped hexheads you mention. There also was a leather strap that appeared to hold something on somewhere?? Could this be the strap, or was it more akin to the spring rig I've seen elsewhere on this site? This reminds me of when I was restoring my 1947 Indian Chief. There was plenty of sound advice, and plenty whom were willing to share it. Thanks a million everyone. I will let you all know how this works out after closer inspection later tonite.

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BTM

45PSS · Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2003 5:20 am Post subject:

You could modify your spring back as follows:
Get some 1/4 inch wide flat spring stock(machinist can help), cut two lengths 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than the origionals Includingthe curved portions at the ends. Make a gig to form the spring ends[two roll pins in a block of metal just far enough apart to allow double thickness, not width, of the spring stock to fit between. Instead of making full wrap around the pin type ends, make 180⁰turns on the ends leaving enough space for the pins to slide thru, end should look like a U sideways. Base of the U shape should Just contact the back pin with the roll holder installed and the lip of the U should just be past the inside edge of the pin with no film holder installed. Form arc of spring as needed to hold film holder firmly. Drill holes in new spring and attach to origional attach points. Retain origional springs for demodification, or templates.
I modified my Meridan B this way to hold Grafmatics.
Charles

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clnfrd · Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2003 12:14 pm Post subject:

I am not sure what the original strap was made of. My 2X3 Pressman came with the Adapta-a-roll and the tapped hex-head screws already were installed. No strap. I fabricated a strap using stainless steel "wrap lock", used to secure transmission lines to tower legs. If the leather strap has holes to attach to the hex heads...and it will apply enough pressure to the holder to hold it securely to the camera, that must be it. Fred.

FixerFiend · Joined: 05 Sep 2003 Posts: 42 Location: Washington D.C.

Fred, there was a pot metal strap/bracket that obviously was origanially part of this setup. When I tried to set the whole thing up, it appears the hexheads have bent or something just enough so that the fine thread thumb screws that hold the bracket to the hexheads that thread into the body itself,will not line up properly. This is a shame considering the pot-metal bracket would have held the adapt a roll very securely without any light leakage. Maybe new hex heads or someway to elongate the treaded holes in the bracket, so they line up. I know this is hard to explain via words, but I hope you can follw me. This setup seems way better than a setup that would use springs. Well thanx everyone and I'll keep trying.Then I'll have to master loading the adapt a roll.(which looks like no small feat.)

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clnfrd · Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2003 8:29 pm Post subject:

I'm sure that you'll figure a way to elongate those holes to get the strap to fit. After all, you are a FixerFiend!

Loading the film is a bit strange. It spools off the roll with the black side out...feeds around to the front...and then back to the back to the take-up spool. I have a tiny copy of the instructions., but I can't scan them well enough to be legible. If you have any more specific questions or want a more elaborate explanation, you can email me: clnfrd@kentuckylakes.net. Fred.

FixerFiend · Joined: 05 Sep 2003 Posts: 42 Location: Washington D.C.

Thanks Fred, I will get that thing mounted by this weekend and by then the film should arrive. I'll be contacting you about the loadig procedure in a little more detail. Now my '53 4x5 arrived today and it has a Graflok back, but sadly I didn't get any sheet film holders w/ this. Of course I have 10 3x4's but no 4x5's. I guess I'll have to scour the net this weekend. If anyone out there knows of any, I'd appreciate a post. Thanks everyone.

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BTM