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I broke my GVII

 
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rchouser



Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Posts: 16
Location: northern virginia

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2003 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, please excuse my terminology, but here goes. The front standard top lens board retainer clip has two screws, left and right. I was removing my lens board for the first time (thought a clean lens was a good idea). All was well on the way out, however; when replaceing the lens board and sliding the spring clip back into position, the left spring clip retaining screw "Popped" (broke, let go, etc). The screw itself broke at about the point that the offset(fat unthreaded part) became threaded. Question: What the heck do I do now. I don't think "easy-out" ever made anything this small. Has anyone had to remove a broken retaining screw before, and how did you do it. Can "single" clip retaining screws be had? Final question, should I replace all the spring clip screws? (I goes they all go). I have had this camera for a Very Short time, but am already attached to it. Please advise.
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45PSS



Joined: 28 Sep 2001
Posts: 3259
Location: Mid Peninsula, Ca.

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2003 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



[ This Message was edited by: 45PSS on 2005-12-26 18:23 ]
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RichS



Joined: 18 Oct 2001
Posts: 1467
Location: South of Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2003 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Charle's idea of the vise-grip is the best if there's enough left to grip. Just be careful not to swing the pliers off angle and break off what you've got.

Be _very_ careful if you decide to drill out the screw. Looking at mine, I'd say it's a number 2 at best. And it's in aluminum. Drilling out a steel screw surrounded by aluminum is a tricky task. I think my attempt at this would be to first hollow ground the tip of the remaining screw with a dremmel. Or use an automatic center punch (the type with a spring, not the type you use a hammer). That will prevent the drill from 'walking' off to a side and gouging the aluminum. Then use a very small drill to create a pilot hole for a larger drill to follow. Go very slow. Don't apply too much pressure, and use a lubricant. I like beeswax myself. As far as applying pressure. Back up the standard itself. You'll be applying a lot of force to the top of the standard and that's not good for the bottom...
Thinking back a bit, there was a tool to use for such a purpose. Don't have an idea what it was called. Probably somehting simple like a 'drill guide'. Anyway, just a bar of steel with inserts that had different sized holes in them. Bolt the bar onto the piece in question and the guide keeps the drill centered and in line. Used to have them someplace years ago. But you could do the same thing with and fairly thick (1/4") piece of metal or even a block of wood. Drill the proper size hole for the drill, then clamp this bock over the screw. The hole in the block will keep the drill centered on top of the screw. You'll have to be much more careful if you use a wood block...
That said, I might also be tempted to find a _good_ machine shop, watch maker, camera repair person to do the job. Does Lustig do such work? Although the problem with this is the front standard may have to be disassembled for them to work on it? That wouldn't be nice...
Good luck!


[ This Message was edited by: RichS on 2003-03-27 11:02 ]
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bertsaunders



Joined: 20 May 2001
Posts: 577
Location: Bakersfield California

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2003 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have many times been able to file or cut a slot in whats left of the screw, then use a std (small screwdriver) to remove the broken screw!! Bert
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