Graflex.org

[ghh3rd]

I have an old Crown Graphic 4x5 Special (purchased in 1972 for photography school at Franklin Institute of Boston) that I lost the battery cover for. I haven't been able to find one. I wondered if anyone here would know where I could get one. I want to sell the camera somewhere (EBay?), and want it to be complete first.

Thanks!
Randy

[sobahguy]

Hi........
Midwest Photo Exchange, Columbus Ohio
http://www.mpex.com
check under current stock/large format/graphic/accessories
Hope this helps.

[ This Message was edited by: sobahguy on 2003-03-11 09:44 ]

[bertsaunders]

The big E has one listed right now
#2916685963

[ghh3rd]

Thanks for the quick replies! This is a great site.

I have been captivated by it and was up very late last night reading through many of the posts on different topics. It got me reminiscing about the fun I had with the camera. Largest print I made was 4X5 feet - used a homemade tray from a large piece of PVC pipe cut in half. Several friends helped to spread the chemicals with sponges. It was a 2 min exposure of night scene from a rooftop in Kenmore Square in Boston, with amazing detail. Several friends helped spread the chemicals. One thing that I did not that long ago was cut some photo paper into 4X5's and load some holders. I exposed it, developed it in the bathroom and contact printed the photo paper 'negatives' against a fresh sheet of paper. Very interesting look to it - very sharp, with an unusual texture to it. No enlarger needed!

My D2V enlarger has been in a wooden box in my not air conditioned 'back room'. I'll be opening that up soon to see if it's in shape to sell. I held on to everything from the camera equipment to two darkrooms worth of equipment for the past 25 years, in case the kids got interested - they didn't. I should build another darkroom and get back into it, but it seems like there's never enough time.

PS - I used to have trouble with air bubbles sticking to my negatives while developing them, and causing spots. Found that soaking the film in plain water for about two minutes and then running the developer solved that. Had to adjust the processing time slightly though. There I go, reminiscing again

Thanks for this site, I enjoyed it!

Randy

[sobahguy]

Hi Randy,
It appears you and I chewed alot of the same territory in search of subjects . I too went to college in Kenmore Square in the mid-80's (not at Franklin) and spent many a day trolling around Comm Ave/Beacon Street/Charles River seeking out the perfect photo op. There is always an interesting subject(s) to be found around there. My school had the Citgo sign sitting on its rooftop and I took many great photos while standing in its red glow!!!

[ghh3rd]

I lived in the old Wadsworth hotel, which was attached to the Hotel Kenmore. Both were converted to dormitories. Took photos from rooftops of both. Freezing and breezy in the winter, but clear. That Citgo sign was/is a landmark. I was thinking of scanning an 8x10 print of Kenmore Square to include in my screensaver photo series.

I read somewhere in this forum that someone was going to have some 4x5 negs scanned somehow. Do you know how that is done?

Randy

[xyzphoto]

ghh3rd, how much + or - did you adjust the developing time when soaking film 2 minutes before developing?

[Lensman]

Fred Lustig on his web site says: In FAQ's
Q. What are your other plans for rebuilding Graflex cameras?
A. I have a list of wants: I want to manufacture battery doors for the Pacemaker top-rangefinder, and for the Super Speed Graphics. The material is available, but there are no dies yet.
His site is http://www.graflex.org/news/lustig.html

[ghh3rd]

Thanks for that info LENSMAN.

XYSPHOTO, as I recall, I used to soak the film for two minutes, then reduce
the processing time by 1 minute.  But I just looked on the internet to see
what other folks are doing, and soak popular time seems to be 30-60 seconds, and
nobody mentions adjusting the processing time.  The important thing is that you are eliminating the chance for bubbles to form on the emulsion. By the way, be sure to make the water presoak close to the temperature that your chemicals will be.

Here's some of the stuff I found:

http://www.rit.edu/~lgfpph/photo1public/process_roll_film_tank.pdf

This offers a pdf file that describes the process.



http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/pf-faq/faq-34.html

1. Pre-soak the film about 2 minutes in water, with intermittent agitation.

2. Dump the water, turn out the lights, and remove the lid and film.

3. Pour the developer into the tank.

4. Drop the film into the tank of developer and replace the lid.

5. Agitate by inversion for 30 seconds. Agitate 5 seconds every 30 seconds

for the full time (9 minutes at 68 degrees F).

.....continue as usual.  As with conventional films, and at least as important, make sure there is a bit

of air space between the top of the solution and the lid. This ensures that

there is adequate turbulence during agitation.

http://www.nyip.com/tips/topic_black_white_08.html

Pre-soaking also warms or cools the film, reels, and tank to the proper developing temperature. It softens the emulsion, which makes developing more consistent and even. Anywhere from 30 seconds to one minute is enough for the pre-soak – the time isn't crucial.

Randy

[sobahguy]

Randy,
Unless i'm mistaken, i believe that the top rangefinder battery doors that Midwest carries are those made by Mr. Lustig. I do know that the Super Graphic battery doors that they carry are those that Fred makes.
Best regards,
SG